Type: Trad, 450 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: David Anderson and Robert Crawford, 1974
Page Views: 1,528 total · 13/month
Shared By: KyleKent on Sep 7, 2009
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

This route climbs the easy slab just left of Coatimundi Whiteout's start.

Pitch 1: 5.9 R/X - Start on the easy slab below Waterstreak delight. Climb up about 15 feet left of Waterstreak and start running it out clipping 3 bolts as you head to Kingpin's second pitch belay. This pitch is about 180 feet. You can add a pitch and belay about 50 feet up, but I HIGHLY recommend against this option.

Pitch 2: 5.7 R - Climb the face just right of Kingpin's 3rd pitch towards the large flake crack shared by Coatimundi Whiteout and Waterstreak Delight.

Pitch 3: 5.9+ - Traverse over to Kingpin's 4th Pitch and climb the face of Kingpin.

Pitch 4: 5.10 - Climb up Kingpin's final corner and make an awkward left exit early to a beautiful overhanging green corner.

Location

Start just left of Coatimundi Whiteout (second bolted line to left)

Protection

Pitch 1 is easy but no protection really. Pitch 2 is runout and the bolts are garbage: take caution. The rest is adequately protected.

Photos