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Routes in Middle Section

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Action S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hump Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: David Anderson and Robert Crawford, 1974
Page Views: 1,309 total, 13/month
Shared By: KyleKent on Sep 7, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Description

This route climbs the easy slab just left of Coatimundi Whiteout's start.

Pitch 1: 5.9 R/X - Start on the easy slab below Waterstreak delight. Climb up about 15 feet left of Waterstreak and start running it out clipping 3 bolts as you head to Kingpin's second pitch belay. This pitch is about 180 feet. You can add a pitch and belay about 50 feet up, but I HIGHLY recommend against this option.

Pitch 2: 5.7 R - Climb the face just right of Kingpin's 3rd pitch towards the large flake crack shared by Coatimundi Whiteout and Waterstreak Delight.

Pitch 3: 5.9+ - Traverse over to Kingpin's 4th Pitch and climb the face of Kingpin.

Pitch 4: 5.10 - Climb up Kingpin's final corner and make an awkward left exit early to a beautiful overhanging green corner.

Location

Start just left of Coatimundi Whiteout (second bolted line to left)

Protection

Pitch 1 is easy but no protection really. Pitch 2 is runout and the bolts are garbage: take caution. The rest is adequately protected.

Photos

GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
 
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
 
thanks for re-bolting! Nov 12, 2017
Joel Longo
Mooresville, NC
 
Joel Longo   Mooresville, NC
 
The route is really quite fun but I feel probably gets overlooked. Pitch 2 is your typical GM face with a little added spice. Dec 21, 2010
KyleKent  
 
All bolts replaced. This climb no longer deserves the 'X' rating, but I'd still consider it quite 'R'. Please climb lightly on the loose holds. Oct 1, 2010