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Routes in Middle Section

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coatimundi Whiteout/ Candyland Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Action S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hump Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,267 total, 23/month
Shared By: Chris M on Nov 7, 2009 with updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Description

The Hotline links the first pitch of the Nose to the 2nd pitch of Cat's Pajamas to the final pitch of Reunion- a striking line up the Flying Buttress

p1: Climb a scrub oak fifteen feet until you can make difficult face moves to gain the crack system. OW and jam through the awkward pod into a flared crack going from tight hands to fingers. Move left through the quartz band to the base of the steep flare- belay here (5.10)

p2: Climb the flare which is wide and gently overhanging at first to steep hands with some face features. When the crack Y's, go left along the seam with sparse protection. Contemplate the step across over the Said and Done corner to get to the base of the Reunion pitch- belay here (5.8)

p3: Climb the exquisite finger crack straight in until the crack angles up and right. Follow this to the top- belay using higher cracks (5.10-)

descend through the hole with a minor downclimb to gain ledge access to the Coke Bottle Raps. 1 60m rope will get you to the ground in 2 raps from here. Otherwise, continue across the Flying Buttress to finish up Beaver Cleaver or High Exposure exit. From the top, you will need a 70m or 2 ropes to complete the first rappel without doing the cam trick.

Location

From the Front Porch, locate the crack that is staring directly at you on the front of the Flying Buttress

Protection

Single black and blue alien, 2x from green alien to #2BD, single #3 & 3.5 BD

Photos

GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
 
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
 
Ha! Jed, that comment made me laugh. Ill try to get that link-up name to stick, its a good one! Oct 29, 2017
Jed G  
If you have extra energy and inspiration, a fun way to finish this linkup (or any route that tops out on the buttress) is when you scramble down to the coke bottle raps, hop on the last pitch of Coke Bottle and take it on up through Beaver Cleaver to the top (5.8....kinda 5.9+). I call it the "Hot Line To A Preferably Uncleaved Beaver". Also pretty easy to top rope the third (5.10) pitch of the nose from near the top of Reunion which would add yet another pitch to your outing. Sep 6, 2017
Flynn Mcfarland
Prescott, AZ
  5.10+
Flynn Mcfarland   Prescott, AZ
  5.10+
Be careful using the tree to start the route, it has become seemingly very weak after the fire and will likely break eventually with enough traffic.

The first pitch was certainly the most difficult in my mind and my crux was getting out of the OW pod half way up, just awkward and sustained but leads to some sinker finger and and thin hand jams.

There is a piton in the left side crack before the OW pod(can add a little rope drag), but other protection can be found if you bury a #3 or #4 in the wide crack. Nov 9, 2015
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Spectacular link up! Oct 3, 2015
Well... If Rusty had it as Hiccup Deluxe, that was probably the original name for the link up. Can't recall where I first heard Hot Line. I'd tend to think Rusty had something to do with the first link up. I seem to recall doing it with Grossman once in '77 when we spent a week at the Front Porch. It sort of captures your attention when you spend enough time hanging on the Porch. Certainly my favorite line up the Buttress itself. Oct 30, 2013
I've only been here since '90 but i've always heard it referred to as "The Hot Line". Nov 30, 2009
BCramer
Prescott
BCramer   Prescott
Didn't take it personal Greg. Seems like every group has their own version of things. I can't tell you how many route names were brought to my attention for the bouldering guide after I printed it. Normal for an area like Prescott that has a lot of out of town visitors but no real repository to pass along route info. The Promised Land is a prime example. Lots of routes but little FA info. Stray bolted lines are all over the Dells as well. It's just the way it is. Nov 25, 2009
BCramer
Prescott
BCramer   Prescott
Paul, pretty sure I got that name from Rusty. Greg, I had heard that name as well, but since I had heard of no competing name at the time, I went with the name Rusty gave it. Can't make everyone happy. Nov 25, 2009
Chris M
Seattle, WA
 
Chris M   Seattle, WA
 
Greg- I've also seen this referred to as "The Grand Slam" on another forum, but that's all I know about that... Nov 22, 2009
Chris M
Seattle, WA
 
Chris M   Seattle, WA
 
Anyone have any idea about the FA of this linkup? Nov 18, 2009
Hiccup Delux ?
Wonder where cramer got that, it was always the Hotline as far back as I can remember.

One of the best "moderate" routes up the FB.
Of course, anything ending on Reunion is a classic. Nov 11, 2009
KyleKent  
 
Spectacular, sustained link up. Highly recommended. The beta from ccmski is right on. Nov 7, 2009