Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,570 total · 22/month
Shared By: Chris M on Nov 7, 2009 with improvements by Jed Alan
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

The Hotline links the first pitch of the Nose to the 2nd pitch of Cat's Pajamas to the final pitch of Reunion- a striking line up the Flying Buttress

p1: Climb a scrub oak fifteen feet until you can make difficult face moves to gain the crack system. OW and jam through the awkward pod into a flared crack going from tight hands to fingers. Move left through the quartz band to the base of the steep flare- belay here (5.10)

p2: Climb the flare which is wide and gently overhanging at first to steep hands with some face features. When the crack Y's, go left along the seam with sparse protection. Contemplate the step across over the Said and Done corner to get to the base of the Reunion pitch- belay here (5.8)

p3: Climb the exquisite finger crack straight in until the crack angles up and right. Follow this to the top- belay using higher cracks (5.10-)

descend through the hole with a minor downclimb to gain ledge access to the Coke Bottle Raps. 1 60m rope will get you to the ground in 2 raps from here. Otherwise, continue across the Flying Buttress to finish up Beaver Cleaver or High Exposure exit. From the top, you will need a 70m or 2 ropes to complete the first rappel without doing the cam trick.

Location

From the Front Porch, locate the crack that is staring directly at you on the front of the Flying Buttress

Protection

Single black and blue alien, 2x from green alien to #2BD, single #3 & 3.5 BD

Photos