Type: Trad, 450 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Scott Baxter and Karl Karlstrom, 1973
Page Views: 4,063 total · 26/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Nov 13, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

This is a great line that links some prominent features up the steep section left of the Great Roof. This line gives a taste of everything, technical stemming, splitter jamming, exposed face wandering, and a cruiser giant corner at the top.

Pitch 1, 5.8~
Scramble up and into a left facing dihedral via cracks and ramps to belay on perch.

Pitch 2, 5.10
The gear on this pitch is small may be PG13. Technical stemming and some thin gear will take you up the giant left facing dihedral. Continue to a point just below a roof, gear belay. This pitch felt hard, as all the 5.10s here do.

Note: You can avoid a painful belay by linking pitches 2 and 3, and this is recommended.

Pitch 3, 5.8
Cruise up the featured hand crack to where it ends and traverse left to a small ledge and a bolt. When we were on the thing that was all there was. Would be nice to update that sections a bit with belay bolts.

Pitch 4, 5.9 Two options:  
  1. Climb up past bolt and shelf working left to an undercling flake and some gear. Tackle the thin face climbing to reach better holds and keep heading towards the big break above. Scramble up to the base of the large dihedral.  

2. A little easier climbing, but watch out for rope drag. Climb past the bolt up and right through some large flakes heading towards a conspicuous break in the wall which holds some gear options. Traverse left and make your way to the base of the big dihedral. This pitch gets 5.9. Very exposed, exciting pitch.

Pitch 5, 5.8
Work your way past large features in the corner to the top. A fun pitch and a great way to finish a spectacular route. 

Location

Middle o' the middle section.

Protection

Standard plus small wires and brass.

Photos