Type: Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Scott Baxter and Karl Karlstrom, 1973
Page Views: 5,521 total · 26/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Nov 13, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is a great line for the well rounded climber which links beautiful and prominent features up the steep section left of the Great Roof. This line gives a taste of everything, technical stemming, splitter jamming, exposed face wandering, and a cruiser giant corner at the top. Don’t pass this one up.

Pitch 1, 5.8~

Scramble up and into a left facing dihedral via cracks and ramps to belay on perch.



Pitch 2, 5.10
The gear on this pitch is small may be PG13. Technical stemming and some thin gear will take you up the giant left facing dihedral. Continue to a point just below a roof, gear belay. This pitch felt hard, as all the 5.10’s here do.

Note: You can avoid a painful belay by linking pitches 2 and 3, and this is recommended.

Pitch 3, 5.8
Cruise up the featured hand crack to where it ends and traverse left to a small ledge and an ok bolted(?) belay.

Pitch 4, 5.9 Two options:  
  1. Climb up past bolt and shelf working left to an undercling flake and some gear. Tackle the thin face climbing to reach better holds and keep heading towards the big break above. Scramble up to the base of the large dihedral.  

2. A little easier climbing, but watch out for rope drag. Climb past the bolt up and right through some large flakes heading towards a conspicuous break in the wall which holds some gear options. Traverse left and make your way to the base of the big dihedral. This pitch gets 5.9. Very exposed, exciting pitch.

Pitch 5, 5.8
Work your way past large features in the corner to the top. A fun pitch and a great way to finish a spectacular route. 

Location Suggest change

Middle o' the middle section.

Protection Suggest change

Standard plus small wires and brass.

Photos

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