Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: FA: Jonathan Bjorklund and Bill Claggett, May '71 FFA: Rusty Baillie and Jack Hauck, November '71
Page Views: 3,506 total · 30/month
Shared By: Chris M on Nov 21, 2009
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

p1: Climb the crack just right of the 1st pitch of Reunion past two shrubs. Traverse up and right through a quartz band to a poor belay stance on a sloping ledge. (5.7)

p2: The business. Climb the obvious crack in the elegant, steep left facing corner. Sustained jamming of all sizes for 90' leads to a belay stance at the base of a wide cleft and the final pitch of Reunion. (5.9)

p3: Climb moderate 5th class up the cleft to a final boulder problem to surmount the top of the Flying Buttress.

Descend through the hole with a minor downclimb to gain ledge access to the Coke Bottle Raps. 1 60m rope will get you to the ground in 2 raps from here. Otherwise, continue across the Flying Buttress to finish up Beaver Cleaver or High Exposure exit. From the top, you will need a 70m or 2 ropes to complete the first rappel without doing the cam trick.

A more sustained and classic four star linkup is Said and Done -> Reunion (5.10-). This starts on either the 1st pitch of Reunion and head right at the quartz band 2/3 up the pitch (which will deposit you at the base of the Said and Done 2nd pitch corner) or Said and Done, climbs the 2nd (corner) pitch of Said and Done, and exits on the final (finger) pitch of Reunion. Highly recommended.

Edit Note: If you do the first full pitch of Reunion, you end up on the ledge system with tree at the base of the Classic Chimney and the Crack Lovers Variations. From there, the only way you'll get to the finger crack pitch is to climb the rest of Reunion to get up there.

Location

Begin on the left side of the flying buttress. The Said and Done start is the crack system just right of the left facing Reunion corner.

Protection

Nuts, 2x cams from #.3 to #2 Camalot, single #3

Photos