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Magnolia Thunderpussy
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.6 from 109
votes
Routes in Middle Section
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A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Blowin in the Wind S,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Breakfast Before Dessert TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V3 6A |
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C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Coatimundi / Candyland Linkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Coke Bottle, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Good Action S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Good, the Bad & the Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hump Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Karl's Korner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Oogie Boogie Boo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 PG13 |
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Psycho Killer T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Rattle n Hum (Coatimundi Whiteout/Candyland Variation) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sorcerer T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Stoned Jester, The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Thin Ice (variation) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Tom Thumb T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Twin Cracks T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
| FA: | FA: David Lovejoy, Jack Hauck, Jonathan Bjorkland, Oct. 1970 FFA Karl Karlstrom, David Lovejoy, Scott Baxter, May 1971 |
| Page Views: | 17,511 total · 78/month |
| Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Nov 13, 2006 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th
Details
Granite Mountain is closed between February 1st and July 15th for peregrine falcon nesting!
More info:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/prescott…
More info:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/prescott…
Description
Magnolia Thunderpussy stacks up several pitches of some of GM's best moderate climbing, and it is on the to do list for many first time visitors. Clean rock, unique terrain, and good gear all conspire to make this line a memorable classic, whether you are dancing up it or cutting your teeth. There is no fixed pro and you’ll be building your own belay anchors.
Pitch 1, 5.9
On the far left side of the Middle Section, and to the right of the Swamp Slabs, look for an archetypal stem box down low. The first pitch gives you two cracks, a cool stem box, and a small roof. The roof is better on one side or the other, but they share difficulty. After the roof there is a short section of scrambling, and I suggest you continue through this until the next belay can be reached, though you can belay above the roof if your second might struggle. For the grade this pitch is as classic as they come.
Pitch 2, 5.7+
The 2nd pitch takes the next crack system right of C.W. Hicks. Climb a low angle crack up right facing dihedral up to the hanging flake roof. This part is awesome for the original 5.7 grade! Chimney your way out and over, and watch the rope drag on this part. You can belay after the roof, or if you ran your rope well, you can continue to a comfy belay higher up.
Pitch 3, 5.5
The last pitch is unique and fun climbing up a chimney and then into the bowels of the mountain to exit out of the "hole" near a chockstone. Although relatively easy (5.5 or so), it's a fun pitch that shouldn't be missed.
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