5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.6 from 104 votes
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches|
|FA:||FA: David Lovejoy, Jack Hauck, Jonathan Bjorkland, Oct. 1970 FFA Karl Karlstrom, David Lovejoy, Scott Baxter, May 1971|
|Page Views:||16,673 total · 83/month|
|Shared By:||JJ Schlick on Nov 13, 2006|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen|
You & This Route
Your To-Do List:Add To-Do ·
Your Difficulty Rating:
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
Magnolia Thunderpussy stacks up several pitches of some of GM's best moderate climbing, and it is on the to do list for many first time visitors. Clean rock, unique terrain, and good gear all conspire to make this line a memorable classic, whether you are dancing up it or cutting your teeth. There is no fixed pro and you’ll be building your own belay anchors.
Pitch 1, 5.9
On the far left side of the Middle Section, and to the right of the Swamp Slabs, look for an archetypal stem box down low. The first pitch gives you two cracks, a cool stem box, and a small roof. The roof is better on one side or the other, but they share difficulty. After the roof there is a short section of scrambling, and I suggest you continue through this until the next belay can be reached, though you can belay above the roof if your second might struggle. For the grade this pitch is as classic as they come.
Pitch 2, 5.7+
The 2nd pitch takes the next crack system right of C.W. Hicks. Climb a low angle crack up right facing dihedral up to the hanging flake roof. This part is awesome for the original 5.7 grade! Chimney your way out and over, and watch the rope drag on this part. You can belay after the roof, or if you ran your rope well, you can continue to a comfy belay higher up.
Pitch 3, 5.5
The last pitch is unique and fun climbing up a chimney and then into the bowels of the mountain to exit out of the "hole" near a chockstone. Although relatively easy (5.5 or so), it's a fun pitch that shouldn't be missed.