Avg: 3.6 from 85 votes
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches|
|FA:||FA: David Lovejoy, Jack Hauck, Jonathan Bjorkland, Oct. 1970 FFA Karl Karlstrom, David Lovejoy, Scott Baxter, May 1971|
|Page Views:||14,163 total · 85/month|
|Shared By:||JJ Schlick on Nov 13, 2006|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
Pitch 1, 5.9
On the far left side of the Middle Section, and to the right of the Swamp Slabs, look for an archetypal stem box down low. The first pitch gives you two cracks, a cool stem box, and a small roof. The roof is better on one side or the other, but they share difficulty. After the roof there is a short section of scrambling, and I suggest you continue through this until the next belay can be reached, though you can belay above the roof if your second might struggle. For the grade this pitch is as classic as they come.
Pitch 2, 5.7+
The 2nd pitch takes the next crack system right of C.W. Hicks. Climb a low angle crack up right facing dihedral up to the hanging flake roof. This part is awesome for the original 5.7 grade! Chimney your way out and over, and watch the rope drag on this part. You can belay after the roof, or if you ran your rope well, you can continue to a comfy belay higher up.
Pitch 3, 5.5
The last pitch is unique and fun climbing up a chimney and then into the bowels of the mountain to exit out of the "hole" near a chockstone. Although relatively easy (5.5 or so), it's a fun pitch that shouldn't be missed.