Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Ed Webster 1979
Page Views: 193 total · 22/month
Shared By: GabrielKoybz on Sep 27, 2018
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

Beautiful low-angle slab pitch following an RP seam which accepts just enough gear to prevent a horror show. Some of the best rock The Mtn has to offer, and the movement is memorable and improbable.

This is one of few pitches at this crag that I would reccomend previewing on TR before attempting a lead. The gear is very specific although good enough when you get it.

When the seam ends, follow Camptown Races to the top of the Flying Buttress. 

Location

It’s a variation of the Classic. It starts on the ledge right of the Cherry tree at the base of Karl’s Korner’s last pitch. 

Protection

Doubles of Blue and Red Ballnuts.
A handful of small wires (yer smallest), including offsets.
A few finger sized cams plus some larger cams for an anchor on top. One fixed knifeblade (replaced after much internal debate).

The Waugh guide shows 4 fixed pins (and a grade of 5.11). The Cramer guide shows 2 fixed pins (and 5.12a). When I got here there were none just lots of grass in the scars. All the scars take gear except where I replaced the pin.

Photos