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Routes in Middle Section

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Candyland T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coke Bottle, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
GBU Direct T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Good Action S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hump Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Rattle n Hum (Coatimundi Whiteout/Candyland Variation) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ian Howell, Rick Thaler, '73 FFA: Charlie Lyon, Steve Dieckhoff, Bruce Carson, '75
Page Views: 963 total · 8/month
Shared By: Greg DeMatteo on Mar 20, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

Climb the Classic (5.7) or any variation thereof that gets you to the 3rd pitch of the Classic. Start up the gorgeous right-facing dihedral, but at the bulge instead of cutting left and going over it, head right underneath the roof to the end.

I remember the climbing being technical and airy with some pretty exciting moves while looking at a potential swing into the corner.

Protection

A rack for The Classic including nuts and cams from TCU's to #1 camalots for the Camptown Races variation.

Photos

BCramer
Prescott
BCramer   Prescott
FA: Ian Howell, Rick Thaler, '73 FFA: Charlie Lyon, Steve Dieckhoff, Bruce Carson, '75. Feb 1, 2010
Bobby Treadwell
Prescott, AZ
 
Bobby Treadwell   Prescott, AZ
 
The undercling makes this route much easier. Sep 26, 2012
Surprised you could reach that for the undercling Bobby! HAHAHHAAHAHA! You've obviously healed? Oct 7, 2012
Bobby Treadwell
Prescott, AZ
 
Bobby Treadwell   Prescott, AZ
 
You know whats funny is that I didnt use the undercling haha. I saw the crimps and just went for it. Felt more like 5.11 without the undercling. Bob when are you coming to Prescott? Oct 7, 2012

More About Camptown Races (variation)

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