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Routes in Middle Section

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Action S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hump Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Elevation: 6,500 ft
GPS: 34.627, -112.554 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Greg Opland on Jan 31, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick
Getting weather forecast...

Description

The Middle Section (for lack of a better name) contains the bulk of the routes at Granite Mountain, running from Magician over to the right side of the Flying Buttress and the Coke Bottle route.** These are the longest, hardest, and arguably best routes at Granite Mountain, running up to 450 feet in length.

  • This separation was originally established by Jim Waugh in his 1982 Granite Mountain guide. I may try to break this up a bit more for ease of finding routes later.
Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Getting There

Access for routes in the Middle Section depends on which route for the most part. Routes on the left end, say from Magician over to Green Savior or so, can be more easily accessed from the trail up to the Swamp Slabs. Routes from (this is approximate) Green Savior over to Coke Bottle are easier to get to by following the climber's trail up to the Front Porch area, racking up, and then hiking to your objective.

38 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Section

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
High Exposure Exit
Trad, Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The Classic
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Savior
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magnolia Thunderpussy
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Lover's Variation
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Said and Done
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup
Trad 4 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reunion
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waterstreak Delight
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Kingpin
Trad 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
The Slammer Jam
Trad 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Candyland
Trad 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
The Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux)
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coatimundi Whiteout
Trad 5 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Help Me Mr. Wizard
Trad
High Exposure Exit 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Sport
The Classic 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Green Savior 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Magnolia Thunderpussy 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Crack Lover's Variation 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Said and Done 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Reunion 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Waterstreak Delight 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Kingpin 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 5 pitches
The Slammer Jam 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Candyland 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 5 pitches
The Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux) 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Coatimundi Whiteout 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Help Me Mr. Wizard 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
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JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Hey thanks for the info Gabriel. Sep 26, 2017
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
JJ :

I've climbed the route this season, and belayed a few buddies on it as well. Both pins have held falls this year. The first pin has gear options around it. the last one is the spooky bit of the pitch, as theres no gear to be had. If the pin did blow, however, it'd be a huge ride but likely clean (theres good gear to be had not far below). I replaced the webbing on the sling anchor, and added a small nut to the mess thats up there. the anchor worries me as its pretty much a hollow-sounding block with a piton and some nuts around it (the nut i added is independent from the block). a bolted anchor would be sweet but I know how it goes with these strict trad old school areas, and I respect all that.

I've been spending lots of time up there recently, and if you have any other questions give me a shout. the Once upon a time bolt anchor needs replacement, but I ain't the guy to do that (never placed a bolt before) Sep 26, 2017
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
What's the current condition of The Sorcerer? We didn't get on it back in the day because the pins were reportedly rotten. Did those ever get replaced with bolts? I had heard rumors this was going to be done. Are people climbing that route? Sep 9, 2017
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
Does anyone know what's up with the crack coming out the right side of the roof? I just noticed that there's an anchor at the end of it, right after it turns the lip. Free attempts? Just really curious. Dec 21, 2016
Chris M
Seattle, WA
Chris M   Seattle, WA
Paul- I heard those critters for the first time this year on the Reunion crack- kinda spooky and makes you not want to stick your fingers in too far- not that you can anyway Nov 7, 2009
Hanging out on Front Porch once a few years back with Ron Beauchamp.
We'd just done the flying buttress w/ Reunion finish.

Sunset is happening and suddenly a lotta critters start coming out of Reunion crack. I thought at first they were bats but decided later they were probably swifts. After trying to count them all and reaching about 300, I gave up. It went on for 10 or 20 minutes.
I guess they like living way back in that crack.

I've spent more than a few evenings on the Front Porch and had never seen anything like this.

It wasn't quite the Carlsbad bat swarm but it was mighty impressive. Jan 23, 2009
70m rope will get you safely down the Coke Bottle Raps. Makes the hike in a bit more mellow and you don't have to worry about that pesky tag line. Jan 1, 2009

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