Elevation: 6,723 ft
GPS: 34.629, -112.567 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 85,357 total · 478/month
Shared By: Greg Opland on Jan 31, 2006 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick
Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

The Middle Section (for lack of a better name) contains the bulk of the routes at Granite Mountain, running from Magician over to the right side of the Flying Buttress and the Coke Bottle route.** These are the longest, hardest, and arguably best routes at Granite Mountain, running up to 450 feet in length.

  • This separation was originally established by Jim Waugh in his 1982 Granite Mountain guide. I may try to break this up a bit more for ease of finding routes later.

Getting There

Access for routes in the Middle Section depends on which route for the most part. Routes on the left end, say from Magician over to Green Savior or so, can be more easily accessed from the trail up to the Swamp Slabs. Routes from (this is approximate) Green Savior over to Coke Bottle are easier to get to by following the climber's trail up to the Front Porch area, racking up, and then hiking to your objective.

44 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Section

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 47
High Exposure Exit
Trad, Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 108
The Classic
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 23
Green Savior
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 87
Magnolia Thunderpussy
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 49
Crack Lover's Variation
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 42
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup
Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 33
Said and Done
Trad 3 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 42
Reunion
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 19
Waterstreak Delight
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 33
Kingpin
Trad 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 39
The Slammer Jam
Trad 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 51
Candyland
Trad 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 17
The Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux)
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 26
Coatimundi Whiteout
Trad 5 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 16
Help Me Mr. Wizard
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
High Exposure Exit
 47
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Sport
The Classic
 108
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Green Savior
 23
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Magnolia Thunderpussy
 87
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Crack Lover's Variation
 49
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup
 42
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Said and Done
 33
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Reunion
 42
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Waterstreak Delight
 19
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Kingpin
 33
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 5 pitches
The Slammer Jam
 39
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 5 pitches
Candyland
 51
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 5 pitches
The Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux)
 17
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Coatimundi Whiteout
 26
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Help Me Mr. Wizard
 16
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Middle Section »

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