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Elevation: 6,723 ft
GPS: 34.62908, -112.56665
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 121,842 total · 553/month
Shared By: Greg Opland on Jan 31, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen
Warning Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Middle Section (for lack of a better name) contains the bulk of the routes at Granite Mountain, running from Magician over to the right side of the Flying Buttress and the Coke Bottle route.** These are the longest, hardest, and arguably best routes at Granite Mountain, running up to 450 feet in length.

  • This separation was originally established by Jim Waugh in his 1982 Granite Mountain guide. I may try to break this up a bit more for ease of finding routes later.

Getting There Suggest change

Access for routes in the Middle Section depends on which route for the most part. Routes on the left end, say from Magician over to Green Savior or so, can be more easily accessed from the trail up to the Swamp Slabs. Routes from (this is approximate) Green Savior over to Coke Bottle are easier to get to by following the climber's trail up to the Front Porch area, racking up, and then hiking to your objective.

47 Total Climbs

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Location: Middle Section Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Section

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 129
The Classic
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 28
Green Savior
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 107
Magnolia Thunderpussy
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 49
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 42
Said and Done
Trad 3 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 53
Reunion
Trad 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 40
Kingpin
Trad 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 48
The Slammer Jam
Trad 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 65
Candyland
Trad 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 22
The Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux)
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 29
Coatimundi Whiteout
Trad 5 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 18
Help Me Mr. Wizard
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 12
Twin Cracks
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
 7
The Good, the Bad & the Ugly (GBU)
Trad 3 pitches
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 6
A Bridge Across Forever (aka The…
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Classic
 129
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Green Savior
 28
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Magnolia Thunderpussy
 107
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup
 49
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Said and Done
 42
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Reunion
 53
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Kingpin
 40
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 5 pitches
The Slammer Jam
 48
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 5 pitches
Candyland
 65
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 5 pitches
The Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux)
 22
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Coatimundi Whiteout
 29
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Help Me Mr. Wizard
 18
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Twin Cracks
 12
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
The Good, the Bad & the Ugl…
 7
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 Trad 3 pitches
A Bridge Across Forever (ak…
 6
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Middle Section »

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