Elevation: 6,500 ft
GPS: 34.627, -112.554 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 58,115 total · 371/month
Shared By: Greg Opland on Jan 31, 2006 with updates from Jed Alan
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland
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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

The Middle Section (for lack of a better name) contains the bulk of the routes at Granite Mountain, running from Magician over to the right side of the Flying Buttress and the Coke Bottle route.** These are the longest, hardest, and arguably best routes at Granite Mountain, running up to 450 feet in length.

  • This separation was originally established by Jim Waugh in his 1982 Granite Mountain guide. I may try to break this up a bit more for ease of finding routes later.

Getting There

Access for routes in the Middle Section depends on which route for the most part. Routes on the left end, say from Magician over to Green Savior or so, can be more easily accessed from the trail up to the Swamp Slabs. Routes from (this is approximate) Green Savior over to Coke Bottle are easier to get to by following the climber's trail up to the Front Porch area, racking up, and then hiking to your objective.

42 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Section

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 38
High Exposure Exit
Trad, Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 85
The Classic
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 22
Green Savior
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 79
Magnolia Thunderpussy
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 41
Crack Lover's Variation
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 35
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup
Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 30
Said and Done
Trad 3 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 37
Reunion
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 19
Waterstreak Delight
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 31
Kingpin
Trad 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 36
The Slammer Jam
Trad 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 46
Candyland
Trad 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 15
The Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux)
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 26
Coatimundi Whiteout
Trad 5 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 13
Help Me Mr. Wizard
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
High Exposure Exit
 38
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Sport
The Classic
 85
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Green Savior
 22
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Magnolia Thunderpussy
 79
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Crack Lover's Variation
 41
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup
 35
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Said and Done
 30
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Reunion
 37
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Waterstreak Delight
 19
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Kingpin
 31
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 5 pitches
The Slammer Jam
 36
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 5 pitches
Candyland
 46
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 5 pitches
The Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux)
 15
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Coatimundi Whiteout
 26
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Help Me Mr. Wizard
 13
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Middle Section »

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Photos

70m rope will get you safely down the Coke Bottle Raps. Makes the hike in a bit more mellow and you don't have to worry about that pesky tag line. Jan 1, 2009
Hanging out on Front Porch once a few years back with Ron Beauchamp.
We'd just done the flying buttress w/ Reunion finish.

Sunset is happening and suddenly a lotta critters start coming out of Reunion crack. I thought at first they were bats but decided later they were probably swifts. After trying to count them all and reaching about 300, I gave up. It went on for 10 or 20 minutes.
I guess they like living way back in that crack.

I've spent more than a few evenings on the Front Porch and had never seen anything like this.

It wasn't quite the Carlsbad bat swarm but it was mighty impressive. Jan 23, 2009
Chris M
Hailey, ID
Chris M   Hailey, ID
Paul- I heard those critters for the first time this year on the Reunion crack- kinda spooky and makes you not want to stick your fingers in too far- not that you can anyway Nov 7, 2009
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
Does anyone know what's up with the crack coming out the right side of the roof? I just noticed that there's an anchor at the end of it, right after it turns the lip. Free attempts? Just really curious. Dec 21, 2016
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
What's the current condition of The Sorcerer? We didn't get on it back in the day because the pins were reportedly rotten. Did those ever get replaced with bolts? I had heard rumors this was going to be done. Are people climbing that route? Sep 9, 2017
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
JJ :

I've climbed the route this season, and belayed a few buddies on it as well. Both pins have held falls this year. The first pin has gear options around it. the secondis the one ya gotta clip, but it appears to be good.

I've been spending lots of time up there recently, and if you have any other questions give me a shout. Sep 26, 2017
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Hey thanks for the info Gabriel. Sep 26, 2017