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Routes in Middle Section

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coatimundi Whiteout/ Candyland Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Action S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hump Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: FA: Scott Baxter, Jim Whitfield, Aug. 1971 FFA: Scott Baxter, Karl Karlstrom, Nov. 1971
Page Views: 6,014 total, 42/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Mar 7, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Description

Reunion is an excellent line found on the left side of the Flying Buttress. While the middle two pitches aren't the best in the world, the first is pretty okay, and the last one is maybe the best finger crack on the Mountain! As the story goes, when Baxter freed the last pitch, he went up with a few nuts, and ran out towards the end of the pitch. Facing retreat or pushing ahead, he cast out on the finish and pulled off a stylish ascent in bold style!

Start at a nice left-facing corner leading up to where it joins The Classic at a big ledge with a tree.

Pitch 1) Climb the nice left-facing corner (5.7), move left near the top and then continue to big ledge with tree.

Pitch 2) Climb up the corner behind the tree as if starting the Classic Chimney pitch, but break right out across the crack and slab leading out right to the base of a big block and a bolted semi-hanging belay.

Pitch 3) Climb left side of block (5.9+). The start is awkward and it's hard initially to get pro, but the finish is awkward as well, so it's consistent. Watch out that you don't fall off and land on your belayer!! Climb up to belay below the last finger crack pitch. This pitch is only about 40-45 feet or so.

Pitch 4) Climb the incredible-looking hockey-stick-shaped finger crack on the left side of the slab. Can't miss it. Excellent pitch!!!! This will put you atop the Flying Buttress. Do either the High Exposure Exit, the Beaver Cleaver, or descend to the Coke Bottle raps from here.

Location

Left side of the Flying Buttress, starting below a left-facing corner system just right of a tree (same start as the Crack Lovers Variation of The Classic).

Protection

Standard rack.
I think the line between Said and Done and Cat's Pajamas is a great start as it flows right into Said and Done and as you mentioned is a good set up for the Reunion finger crack. Start up a short corner and mount the detached fang of rock about 25' up; then climb through the small roof and onto quartz knobs joining "Said and Done" at the belay. I think the pitch is in the 5.8 range and protects fairly well although it has been a couple of years since I climbed it. I have no idea what this variation was originally called. Nov 9, 2009
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.10-
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.10-
Many people climb the 1st pitch of Reunion as the start of the Classic.

The 3rd pitch doesn't get done often- there are two bolts at the belay below this pitch- one is an old 1/4" leeper so beware. The 9+ is full value with sparse pro- a fall before the .75 pocket midway up this pitch will land you on your belayer or the slab below. It is easy to link this pitch with the final one- no rope drag.

For a 4 star linkup- climb the Hotline (first pitch of the Nose, 2nd pitch of Cat's Pajamas, final pitch of Reunion). This is noted as Hiccup Delux on the Cramer topo. Don't know which name is the original- just that the Hotline is what seems to be accepted by the climbing community here.

Said and Done to Reunion is another 4 star linkup with a classic GM 9+ pitch in there! Oct 17, 2009
Reunion's third pitch finger crack is one of the Mountain's best pitches. There are many enjoyable ways to get there. I would recommend Said and Done -> Reunion -> Beaver Cleaver OR Cat's Pajama's -> Reunion.

Don't miss this perfect line!!! Dec 29, 2008