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Routes in Middle Section

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Candyland T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coke Bottle, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
GBU Direct T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Good Action S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hump Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Rattle n Hum (Coatimundi Whiteout/Candyland Variation) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Barry Ward, Alan Humphrey (YB)
Page Views: 1,777 total · 13/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jun 20, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

Left of Twin Cracks are a line of bolts following rib/plates. Some of stances are hard to clip from, and exiting the route can be a bit exciting. Not a true sport route.

Location

Right side of Flying Buttress, one pitch up. Access by 5th class chimney on outside edge or pitch 1 of Coke Bottle.

Protection

bolts
manuel rangel
Arizona
  5.11c PG13
manuel rangel   Arizona
  5.11c PG13
I got on it after the FA and took one of the worst whippers I ever felt. Couldn't figure out how to get to the last bolt, couldn't reverse the moves and tried again, then flew. Ouch. Jan 12, 2009
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Watching Gabe red point this and then play on it, convinced me that it's a must do. This and Twin Cracks make for two sweet lines that can be either full sun or full shade depending on the season and easy to access single pitch burns. Twin Cracks being the elegant trad line and this being the tricky sport one. Oct 11, 2017
I-Habib
Prescott, AZ
 
I-Habib   Prescott, AZ
 
gets 11c on the topo, but still feels stout... took some nice rides while figuring out the crux, then for sure almost teetered off at the top. wouldnt have wanted to take that one... i think the exciting nature of this route adds to the quality Oct 30, 2017

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