Type: Trad, 300 ft
FA: Jonathan Bjorklund, Bill Claggett, and Bob Ladd. 1971
Page Views: 1,555 total · 19/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Oct 25, 2012
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

After a so-so first pitch this climbs into a great handcrack then eases into some "interesting" climbing above.

Pitch one: Starts in a left facing wall, right of Reunion with a large flake. Climb the flake and then trend right to a good belay below an obvious crack in a dihedral.

Pitch two: An excellent and stiff hand crack, be sure to go right at a right trending crack (easy to miss) otherwise you will be on a spicy 5.9 variation. With a 70m you can make it damn near the top otherwise belay where appropriate.

Pitch three: Without a 70m rope on P2 belay where appropriate and make a 3rd trivial pitch to the top. Beware loose flakes!

Finish by scrambling around to a ledge to the Coke Bottle rap anchors, 2 raps with a 70m to the ground.

Location

Starts climbing large flake right of Reunion start.

Protection

Doubles to C4 #3 are nice.

Photos