Type: Trad, 300 ft
FA: Jonathan Bjorklund, Bill Claggett, and Bob Ladd. 1971
Page Views: 1,428 total · 19/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Oct 25, 2012
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

After a so-so first pitch this climbs into a great handcrack then eases into some "interesting" climbing above.

Pitch one: Starts in a left facing wall, right of Reunion with a large flake. Climb the flake and then trend right to a good belay below an obvious crack in a dihedral.

Pitch two: An excellent and stiff hand crack, be sure to go right at a right trending crack (easy to miss) otherwise you will be on a spicy 5.9 variation. With a 70m you can make it damn near the top otherwise belay where appropriate.

Pitch three: Without a 70m rope on P2 belay where appropriate and make a 3rd trivial pitch to the top. Beware loose flakes!

Finish by scrambling around to a ledge to the Coke Bottle rap anchors, 2 raps with a 70m to the ground.

Location

Starts climbing large flake right of Reunion start.

Protection

Doubles to C4 #3 are nice.

Photos

Bobby Treadwell
Bend, OR
 
Bobby Treadwell   Bend, OR
 
FA: Jonathan Bjorklund, Bill Claggett, and Bob Ladd. 1971. First pitch is pretty good, second pitch is amazing with a nice airy step across! Oct 25, 2012
Chris M
Hailey, ID
  5.8+
Chris M   Hailey, ID
  5.8+
Bobby- I think you're talking about the step across from Cat's Pajamas to Reunion if you follow the seam left after the hand crack. The 2nd pitch of Cat's breaks right up a seam after the hand crack, leading to the base of the 3rd pitch. Nov 18, 2014
Bobby Treadwell
Bend, OR
 
Bobby Treadwell   Bend, OR
 
Correct! I still have yet to do the upper seam on Cat's. Nov 18, 2014
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
I thought the first pitch was terrific and so unlike anything else I've done so far on GM. Thought provoking and tricky, was way fun. Second pitch is also special and quite different as the stellar hand jamming is complemented by great face features and even some chicken-heady stuff. Had done the Hotline link up a few weeks ago and so was good to do this pitch again as part of its original line. Last pitch does has some bad exfoliation sheets to start, but is fun with a nice clean finger crack if you take the right branch up high. Very cool route! Nov 15, 2015