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Routes in Middle Section

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Action S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hump Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 300 ft
FA: Jonathan Bjorklund, Bill Claggett, and Bob Ladd. 1971
Page Views: 1,223 total, 20/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Oct 25, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Description

After a so-so first pitch this climbs into a great handcrack then eases into some "interesting" climbing above.

Pitch one: Starts in a left facing wall, right of Reunion with a large flake. Climb the flake and then trend right to a good belay below an obvious crack in a dihedral.

Pitch two: An excellent and stiff hand crack, be sure to go right at a right trending crack (easy to miss) otherwise you will be on a spicy 5.9 variation. With a 70m you can make it damn near the top otherwise belay where appropriate.

Pitch three: Without a 70m rope on P2 belay where appropriate and make a 3rd trivial pitch to the top. Beware loose flakes!

Finish by scrambling around to a ledge to the Coke Bottle rap anchors, 2 raps with a 70m to the ground.

Location

Starts climbing large flake right of Reunion start.

Protection

Doubles to C4 #3 are nice.

Photos

arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
I thought the first pitch was terrific and so unlike anything else I've done so far on GM. Thought provoking and tricky, was way fun. Second pitch is also special and quite different as the stellar hand jamming is complemented by great face features and even some chicken-heady stuff. Had done the Hotline link up a few weeks ago and so was good to do this pitch again as part of its original line. Last pitch does has some bad exfoliation sheets to start, but is fun with a nice clean finger crack if you take the right branch up high. Very cool route! Nov 15, 2015
Bobby Treadwell
Prescott, AZ
 
Bobby Treadwell   Prescott, AZ
 
Correct! I still have yet to do the upper seam on Cat's. Nov 18, 2014
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.8+
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.8+
Bobby- I think you're talking about the step across from Cat's Pajamas to Reunion if you follow the seam left after the hand crack. The 2nd pitch of Cat's breaks right up a seam after the hand crack, leading to the base of the 3rd pitch. Nov 18, 2014
Bobby Treadwell
Prescott, AZ
 
Bobby Treadwell   Prescott, AZ
 
FA: Jonathan Bjorklund, Bill Claggett, and Bob Ladd. 1971. First pitch is pretty good, second pitch is amazing with a nice airy step across! Oct 25, 2012