Type: Trad, Sport Fixed Hardware (3)
FA: Christian Griffith
Page Views: 9,765 total · 42/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Oct 12, 2001 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description

Desdichado is the spectacular rising traverse that follows a weakness through the beautiful overhung wall on the left side of the C’est La Vie dihedral. This historically significant classic involves some wild moves and really fun climbing.

In the early 2000’s, a key flake broke off near the 4th bolt, adding some difficult moves (cool moves though!) and bumping the grade to 13+. All the remaining holds feel solid. The old Mammut ring bolts look a bit sketchy, however they do the job. Another thing to note is the lack of good anchors. There is an old anchor a ways up the slab, but it is not very useful, making for an obligatory victory whip (or untie and solo off like Christian did). This route will eventually (or soon) need an upgrade.

Approach via C’est a Vie, Pansee Sauvage, or Le Boomerang. The route begins at the bolt anchor at the base of the open book. Follow C’est La Vie to just below (or after) the crux and break left via lots of fun moves on sloping edges past 4 bolts (fixed draws) to a tricky finish on the overhanging arete. As far as 13+’s go, the moves are not very hard, but it is very sustained.

This is an amazing and classic route, have fun!

Protection

You'll need some trad gear for the first pitch of C'est La Vie, which takes you to the bolted belay below Desdichado. To get to Desdichado's bolts you'll also have to do the crux (desperate) of C'est La Vie. Bring RPs, a long sling and a couple of mid-ranged stoppers for the crux corner.

Photos