Avg: 3.9 from 15 votes
|Page Views:||10,575 total · 44/month|
|Shared By:||Pinklebear on Oct 12, 2001 · Updates|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
In the early 2000’s, a key flake broke off near the 4th bolt, adding some difficult moves (cool moves though!) and bumping the grade to 13+. All the remaining holds feel solid. The old Mammut ring bolts look a bit sketchy, however they do the job. Another thing to note is the lack of good anchors. There is an old anchor a ways up the slab, but it is not very useful, making for an obligatory victory whip (or untie and solo off like Christian did). This route will eventually (or soon) need an upgrade.
Approach via C’est a Vie, Pansee Sauvage, or Le Boomerang. The route begins at the bolt anchor at the base of the open book. Follow C’est La Vie to just below (or after) the crux and break left via lots of fun moves on sloping edges past 4 bolts (fixed draws) to a tricky finish on the overhanging arete. As far as 13+’s go, the moves are not very hard, but it is very sustained.
This is an amazing and classic route, have fun!