Type: Trad, 4 pitches Fixed Hardware (10)
FA: Layton Kor, Ben Chidlaw, 1957.
Page Views: 14,004 total · 60/month
Shared By: Andrew Wellman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is a classic face climb on the difficult to protect Bulge Buttress. The line is not obvious from the ground, but it is not too difficult to discern once high on the cliff. The entire climb is easy, but entails many very runout traverses where serious falls could take place. The leader should be confident at the grade and so should the follower, as it is just as dangerous to follow this route as to lead it. Have fun, this route is very unique and I found the most enjoyable part to be finding tons of edges and huecos covering the entire route.

Pitch 1 goes straight up from the bottom of the buttress starting right behind the Whale's Tail. It is runout 5.5 with one fixed pin to a bolted belay.

Pitch 2 traverses right on a horizontal crack under a bulge to the lip. Place your last piece here and run it out all the way back the way you came on a 5.4 ramp. This pitch is about 90 feet but only about 35 feet of elevation are gained.

Pitch 3 traverses right past a bolt and over a bulge before following another easy ramp way back to the left.

Pitch 4 traverses right for about 30 feet until the angle eases off enough to walk off the East Slabs.

Eds. There is a straight up crack-like finish that goes at 5.9.

Protection

All belays are hanging w/ double bolts. The route is extremely run out and most of the protection is fixed pins. Bring 6 quickdraws and cams up to a #1 Camalot.

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