Type: Trad, Sport, TR Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: T Montgomery, M Brooks 1986
Page Views: 2,712 total · 12/month
Shared By: Andrew Wellman on Aug 9, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


66 Opinions

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Description

This route is on the Bulge Wall. It has the same start as Blackwalk before splitting off to the right. This route is great fun to toprope, but I really wouldn't recommend it as a lead because of the poor bolt placements. It is of the same style as Blackwalk, thin technical face, but is more sustained and not quite as runnout.

Start up the easy corner of Blackwalk and move right at an overlap. From here, the first bolt is straight up, but to reach it climb up the left angling ramp till you can traverse onto the blank face via small holds. Your waist will be above the bolt when you can finally clip it, and the holds you are clipping from are the smallest on the route. The crux is immediately after the bolt. The route continues up on fairly decent holds past a #1 Camalot placement and a bolt to a half driven LA for the last slopey move.

Protection

The pro goes as follows: #0.75 Camalot, bolt, #0.75 or #1 Camalot, bolt, manky fixed LA. There are double bolt rap anchors at the top which can be rapped with a single 60m.

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