Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress
A Breed Apart T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R | |
Anthill Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R | |
Archer McLanahan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Back in Black S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a | |
Backstroke T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R | |
Backtalk T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R | |
Black Top S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Blackwalk T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R | |
Book of Numbers T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
Bulge Indirect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R | |
Bulge, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R | |
C'est La Fin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R | |
C'est La Morte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
C'est La Vie T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Chromium Shore T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R | |
Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Continue-us T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R | |
Crack Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 | |
Desdichado T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a | |
Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
East Overhang TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R | |
East Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 | |
Edge of Night, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R | |
Exodus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Flakes, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Genesis T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b | |
Genuine Risk T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 | |
Genuine Risk Takers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 | |
High Noon T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Horizontal Beginnings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Je T'Aime T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R | |
La Vie d' Pansey TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X | |
Le Boomerang T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Left Side of Roark, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R | |
Mental Cruelty TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Night T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X | |
Noggin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Original Anthill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
PA's Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Pansee Sauvage T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R | |
Pilgrim S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Pseudo Sidetrack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R | |
Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 | |
Redguard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Restless Nights T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R | |
Semi-Wild T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R | |
Semi-Wild Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R | |
Shades of Gray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R | |
Sticky Feet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R | |
To Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R | |
Trinity Cracks T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R | |
Vaporizer, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Variation to Lower Meadows T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 | |
Walk the Talk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R | |
Whistle Stop, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Whittle Wall, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R | |
Whittle Whisk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
Type: | Trad, 4 pitches |
FA: | Layton Kor, TJ Boggs, 1962. FFA: Jim and Dave Erickson, 1969 |
Page Views: | 3,701 total, 18/month |
Shared By: | Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyonÂ’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Seasonal Closures
Details
Seasonal Closures (3/22/17, effective immediately)
Shirttail Peak is closed to all activities, including rock climbing, due to Golden Eagles nesting in the area. Trespassing constitutesâ€‹ a federal offense and violators will be cited. Eagles are sensitive to disturbance caused by human presence and may abandon their nest and young as a result.â€‹
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
From the BCC email: Millenium Crag is closed.
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Shirttail Peak is closed to all activities, including rock climbing, due to Golden Eagles nesting in the area. Trespassing constitutesâ€‹ a federal offense and violators will be cited. Eagles are sensitive to disturbance caused by human presence and may abandon their nest and young as a result.â€‹
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
From the BCC email: Millenium Crag is closed.
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is a nice, although spicy pitch 50' left of the bulge on the bulge portion of the [Redgarden Wall]. There are two bolts on this route, and a fixed pin, other than that there is only one place (several feet before the pin) to place protection. The crux occurs after the second bolt, and is well protected. After pulling the crux however, you must continue on [runout] 5.8 terrain from which a fall would not be good. Getting to the first bolt is also quite spicy. This is a cool one pitch route. Good warmup for Back in Black.17 Comments
Thanks for the comment
Slow down, you've reached your posting limit
Loveland, Co
Yes, Dave, if not my scariest pitch, one of them. Aug 9, 2015
Silverthorne
Colorado Springs
The runout moves aren't to bad, in the 5.8/9 range. Don't blow it though, this route is serious. There is a #3 placement below the pin at the top. It's nice to put that in after the runout. That and the 0.5 C4 at the bottom is all I placed. Oct 19, 2011
Centennial, CO
Boulder, Colorado
Around Boulder, CO
I also like to put in some gear before the first bolt and supplement the pins on the way to the upper anchor with a few more gear placements. In short, I usually bring a rack and find some interesting gear placements along the way. With or without the extra gear, this is an exciting and fantastic route. Rossiter gave it "Top Ten" status in his old Boulder Climbs South Book, although there were eleven climbs with "Top Ten" status in that book. I guess Eldo is just that good. Sep 12, 2003
North Vancouver, BC
Steamboat Springs, CO
Denver, CO