Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress

A Breed Apart T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Anthill Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Archer McLanahan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Back in Black S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Backstroke T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Backtalk T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Black Top S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blackwalk T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Book of Numbers T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bulge Indirect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Bulge, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
C'est La Fin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
C'est La Morte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
C'est La Vie T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Chromium Shore T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Continue-us T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Crack Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Desdichado T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Overhang TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
East Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Edge of Night, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Exodus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flakes, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Genesis T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Genuine Risk T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Genuine Risk Takers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
High Noon T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horizontal Beginnings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Je T'Aime T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
La Vie d' Pansey TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Le Boomerang T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Left Side of Roark, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mental Cruelty TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Night T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Noggin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Original Anthill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PA's Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pansee Sauvage T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Pilgrim S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pseudo Sidetrack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Redguard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Restless Nights T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Semi-Wild T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Semi-Wild Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Shades of Gray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sticky Feet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
To Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Trinity Cracks T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Vaporizer, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Variation to Lower Meadows T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Walk the Talk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Whistle Stop, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whittle Wall, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Whittle Whisk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Duncan Ferguson and John Bragg, 1974
Page Views: 3,744 total, 18/month
Shared By: Ben Schneider on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


85 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Begin atop some boulders at the base of the prominent wall just a hundred meters north of the large cement slab by the river. Traverse up and left in the rotten band with poor pro. Reach a huge flake with good pro - place pro as far right as you can, and add a long runner to it. Surmount the flake, head right and around a corner (tricky - stay low to make it easier). Follow a beautiful finger crack up and right until it meets another crack (where you will find two pins - use really long runners). Now work up then sharply left to a two-bolt anchor. Expect bad rope drag. 160 feet.

You can rappel with on 60m rope if you are very careful and downclimb from the ledge.

Protection

RPs, standard rack.

Location

This begins just right of C'est La Vie.
Fehim Hasecic
Boulder, CO
  5.9 PG13
Fehim Hasecic   Boulder, CO
  5.9 PG13
Climbed this today, very good. Beautiful finger crack, non-existent, just 3-4 pockets until you get on the face. May 22, 2016
Great route. Use some double length runners on the first half, and rope drag should be just fine. Mar 8, 2013
Rodger Raubach
  5.9-
Rodger Raubach  
  5.9-
I did this route many years ago before some of the loose flakes were "cleaned off." My comment in my notebook was "the lower pro is only as good as the flakes." I'd suggest breaking it into 2 short leads to reduce rope drag. A single 60 meter rope should suffice to get off, and a 70 meter is "no sweat." Mar 12, 2011
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
 
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
 
Dude, I got a great #1 Ballnut in behind one of those solid(er) looking rocks in the 5.6 section. Totally bomber. Also, totally nasty rope drag at the top. Be smarter than me. Place long runners on your pieces before moving right around the roof. Sep 26, 2009
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
This is a good pitch. It is more engaging than either The Flakes or Whistle Stop. Jul 21, 2009
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
  5.9 R
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
  5.9 R
Great Climb! Questionable gear at the start, but it is only 5 or 6 so enjoy it! Apr 22, 2007
In Guy Humphrey's excellent photo, the climber has a piece attached to a long purple runner behind a "thumpy" flake (third piece from bottom of the photo). This flake is AWOL. The reach up into the crack is now a tad harder. Still felt like 5.9-ish, but this felt like the crux move of the pitch. Mar 16, 2007
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9+
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9+
A very good variation is to climb the variation left of The Flakes start (the right-angling ramp) to the left edge of the Flakes ledge and then step left to the base of the C'est la Morte crack (see Guy Humphrey's photo, but note that the 2nd and 3rd visible pieces of gear in that photo are on thumpy rock--I didn't use either of those). The rope runs straighter than either the regular C'est la Morte, The Flakes or the regular Flakes start to C'est la Morte. Gear is good. A #3 Camalot at the ledge with a double length sling protects the step left to the base of the C'est la Morte crack, and a #2 Camalot up and left will keep you there (at the base of the crack). Dec 29, 2005
Eric Goltz
Boulder, CO
 
Eric Goltz   Boulder, CO
 
Sweet route, at least as good as C'est la Vie (p1). Don't bother with gear until the undercling. I didn't find RPs necessary... the crack sews up with medium stoppers. Oct 27, 2005
Devious route, but a lot of fun! Jun 12, 2005
Shane Zentner
Colorado
  5.9
Shane Zentner   Colorado
  5.9
Fun climb. I didn't see the 'RP crack' that the guidebook mentioned. A bit cool in the shade, smokin' in the sunlight. This would be a fun winter route. Oct 9, 2004
Clint Locks
Boulder
  5.9
Clint Locks   Boulder
  5.9
Remember to protect the second at the end of the climb, before the anchors. It'd be a pretty good swing. By that, of course, I mean a pretty BAD swing. Jun 24, 2004
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
  5.9
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
  5.9
Cool, exposed moves half way up, as you exit the lower face moving right and connecting with the upper crack. Same finish as Flakes. From the chains, 60m rope took us right to the start with rope to spare. Jul 2, 2003
flynn  
Three stars might be a little generous, but it's still a pretty good route. I remember it having an appetite for small, springy things; in other words, TCUs are very helpful. In summer, too, it sports an active hive of small wasps that don't seem particularly aggressive, though they are numerous. Naturally, they're housed very near the crux. The comment about a 50m rope just reaching the 'ledge' is completely accurate. The ends of the rope come through your ATC (or whatever) just as your feet touch. Mind your balance! Oct 17, 2002
The anchors at the top of C'est La Morte and Whistle Stop (they end with the same upper part of the crack and left traverse) are set such that one 165ft rope will get you down... JUST BARELY... to the boulders leaning on the wall. Make sure the ends are even! Aug 29, 2001
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
The "easy" climbing goes something like this: after traversing up and left (along a sort of rock stratum, toward Cest la Vie), traverse back right under a small overhang, head up a thin, right leaning crux crack, and then traverse back left to the fixed anchor (near the right margin of the large Cest la Vie dihedral). Bring 2 ropes to rappel. Jan 1, 2001