Avg: 3.7 from 98 votes
Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
|Page Views:||13,455 total · 56/month|
|Shared By:||Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
This line lies to the left of C'est La Vie, it begins in a left-angling dihedral/crack, then moves left around a bulge and onto a slab. After some easy climbing up the crack, one finds an awkward .10c crack move up to the bulge where there are two good pins. Move left onto a small stance and crank a .10 slab move (guidebook gives this .11a but it seemed very easy compared to other Eldo .11as) move up the slab past another 5.10 section and some bolts, yard up a 5.9 flake to a two bolt anchor, from here one can lower off or continue on the hard second pitch.
Per Joshua Merriam: [I'm adding this to reduce confusion, hoping the original entry can be changed to just p1]
Genesis starts off a ledge 30' up on the left side of the S. Buttress of Redgarden. The first pitch starts as a left-facing, leaning dihedral capped by an overhang which you slip around left onto the slab. Then some face climbing gets you to the first anchor. (soft at 11b?) BUT there is 30 feet more climbing for those so inclined.
Clip the anchors, switch to the good holds up and L of the anchor and clip another bolt.
Per Bob D. - The crux pitch is more of a short, boulder problem with gear (bolts) at your waist. Crank hard off the flake to a small edge, press down almost turning into a mantle. There is a good size runout to good gear placements about 15-20 feet above the crux.