Type: Trad, Sport, 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (12)
FA: Jim Collins
Page Views: 13,455 total · 56/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

A classic line - the first pitch at least, I haven't tried the second .12+ pitch although it is one of Eldo's (and the nation's) best face climbing testpieces.

This line lies to the left of C'est La Vie, it begins in a left-angling dihedral/crack, then moves left around a bulge and onto a slab. After some easy climbing up the crack, one finds an awkward .10c crack move up to the bulge where there are two good pins. Move left onto a small stance and crank a .10 slab move (guidebook gives this .11a but it seemed very easy compared to other Eldo .11as) move up the slab past another 5.10 section and some bolts, yard up a 5.9 flake to a two bolt anchor, from here one can lower off or continue on the hard second pitch.

Per Joshua Merriam: [I'm adding this to reduce confusion, hoping the original entry can be changed to just p1]

Genesis starts off a ledge 30' up on the left side of the S. Buttress of Redgarden. The first pitch starts as a left-facing, leaning dihedral capped by an overhang which you slip around left onto the slab. Then some face climbing gets you to the first anchor. (soft at 11b?) BUT there is 30 feet more climbing for those so inclined.

Clip the anchors, switch to the good holds up and L of the anchor and clip another bolt.

Per Bob D. - The crux pitch is more of a short, boulder problem with gear (bolts) at your waist. Crank hard off the flake to a small edge, press down almost turning into a mantle. There is a good size runout to good gear placements about 15-20 feet above the crux.

Protection

P1: There is a lot of fixed gear on this route, bring some stoppers and a few mid range cams for the beginning. 3 bolts.

P2: 1 bolt, + tricky small gear, 1 fixed wire to second anchor.

Photos