All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - S Buttress

Sticky Feet

Name: Sticky Feet
Rating: 2.4

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R

Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Breed Apart T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Anthill Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
	Anthill/Redguard Traverse T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
	Archer McLenahan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Back in Black S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Backstroke T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
	Backtalk T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Balance of Terror T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Black Top S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Blackwalk T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Blunt Buttress, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Book of Numbers T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Bulge Indirect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Bulge, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	C'est La Fin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	C'est La Morte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	C'est La Vie T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Chromium Shore T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Continue-us T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Crack Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Desdichado T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	East Overhang TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	East Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Edge of Night, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
	Exodus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Flakes, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Genesis T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Genesis (P1) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Genuine Risk T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Genuine Risk Takers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	High Noon T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Horizontal Beginnings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	I Can't Copeland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	I Can't Copeland Free T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Je T'Aime T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
	La Vie d' Pansey TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
	Lakme T 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a PG13
	Le Boomerang T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Left Side of Roark, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Mental Cruelty TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Night T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
	Noggin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Original Anthill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	PA's Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Pansee Sauvage T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Pilgrim S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Pseudo Sidetrack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
	Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Redgarden Girdle Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Redguard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Restless Nights T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
	Semi-Wild T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Semi-Wild Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Shades of Gray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Slack Walk T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Sticky Feet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	To Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Trinity Cracks T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Vaporizer, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Variation to Lower Meadows T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Walk the Talk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Whistle Stop, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Whittle Wall, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Whittle Whisk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

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Type:	Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches Fixed Hardware (1)
GPS:	39.93119, -105.28395
FA:	Harrison, Meyers, 1981
Page Views:	1,500 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Guy H. on May 21, 2011
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.

Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

Sticky Feet is located just to the right of The Bulge and sees very little traffic. The climbing is adventurous and requires a bit of route finding for the onsight. The climbing on the crux pitch is well protected, but the first pitch has some big runouts on ~5.7 climbing. It is a slight step up from Shades of Gray with a similar style of climbing.

P1: Head straight up with multiple 5.8 cruxes through overlaps. All of the crux moves have "sticky feet". You will pass a rotten chickenhead on the left about halfway up the pitch. There is a 25 foot runout on 5.7 climbing near the top of the pitch. Belay on the right side of the scoop (5.8, 5.7R/X, 100 feet).

P2: Angle left through the overhanging wall and pull the lip at a huge bucket. Continue up well-protected rock to a bolt to where the angle eases with runout 5.5 climbing (5.9, 100 feet).

P3: Angle right to easy 5th class to the walk-off (5.4, 150 feet).

The first two pitches can be combined with a 60/70m rope, but you will need a triple set of finger-size cams.