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Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress

A Breed Apart T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Anthill Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Archer McLanahan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Back in Black S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Backstroke T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Backtalk T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Black Top S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blackwalk T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Book of Numbers T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bulge Indirect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Bulge, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
C'est La Fin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
C'est La Morte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
C'est La Vie T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Chromium Shore T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Continue-us T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Crack Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Desdichado T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Overhang TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
East Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Edge of Night, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Exodus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flakes, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Genesis T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Genuine Risk T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Genuine Risk Takers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
High Noon T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horizontal Beginnings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Je T'Aime T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
La Vie d' Pansey TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Le Boomerang T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Left Side of Roark, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mental Cruelty TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Night T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Noggin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Original Anthill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PA's Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pansee Sauvage T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Pilgrim S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pseudo Sidetrack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Redguard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Restless Nights T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Semi-Wild T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Semi-Wild Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Shades of Gray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sticky Feet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
To Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Trinity Cracks T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Vaporizer, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Variation to Lower Meadows T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Walk the Talk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Whistle Stop, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whittle Wall, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Whittle Whisk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: L. Dalke, C. Jennings (5.8 A4), 1967.FFA: D. Azin, M. Tarrant, 1986
Page Views: 2,453 total, 15/month
Shared By: Mark Tarrant on Oct 28, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

A somewhat controversial free climb back in '86, this rarely climbed route really should see more traffic. Book of Numbers is a 2 pitch route that strays slightly from the aid line on P1, then reconnects with the original line on P2. It's an exciting excursion up the steep wall and corners left of Genesis. The pitches were originally worked and freed separately, but the climb was redpointed in a single pitch (lots of rope drag--not recommended). Start as for Anthill Direct or on the ledge for Genesis.

Pitch 1: 5.12b, 90'. Wander up Anthill Direct for about 50' to an old bolt, aiming for a 4' overhang followed by a shallow corner with a line of old pins. Pull past the overhang (.10+, #4 Friend), up the corner, and then move right past 2 bolts on a bulging, blank face (crux) to a 2-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: 5.12c/d, 60'. Move up the steep, right-facing, right-leaning dihedral (.11) past pins and bolts. The crux comes about 30' up by a ring bolt. It involves some awkward laybacking and wild positioning. Finish through the roof atop the dihedral (.11, large Friends), then flip left onto an easy slab. There was an old fixed belay about 25' higher from which you could rap--I'm not sure what its present condition is.

Both pitches are good, but P1 gets done more than P2 partly because P2 had a reputation as an ankle breaker. Two prominent climbers did get injured on the 2nd ascent. The ring bolt was added later, and now this pitch is far safer. Book of Numbers is another unique Eldo route that combines a little history with feel of a modern sport climb.

Protection

Wires through 4". Quick draws and long slings.

Photos

Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.12c/d
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.12c/d
Tried this route the other day. I felt like P1 was the definite crux of the route, but I suck at 5.12 slab climbing, so that's probably why. P2 is really fun! The roof at the end felt weird, even for Eldo. I cut my finger open pretty good on it. Worthy route! Don't need much gear. Did find a #4 useful, but you could go without. Apr 9, 2016
Scott Bennett
  5.12c
Scott Bennett  
  5.12c
Tried the first pitch today, a few thoughts:

-The whole pitch felt very well protected. I used a #3 and #4 Camalot at the first roof, and then a few more small pieces to back up the pins on the rest of the pitch.
-There's plenty of hard climbing packed into this pitch, but the standout crux is near the top 2 bolts, starting with a big reach and step right (easier if you're taller), and then a mega-highstep (easier if you're shorter).
-This is a very high quality pitch, with though-provoking moves and good rock. I can't wait to try the next pitch, hopefully tomorrow morning!

-Scott

edit:
Tried the second pitch today: more great climbing! Though not very long, it's definitely an enduro challenge. Lots of underclings, sidepulls, and tricky footwork force you to maintain body tension for a long time with no real rests.

Fortunately, it seems very well protected with two bolts and a slew of fixed pins. I also used a md/lg stopper (BD #9) and a #3 Camalot.

The big roof at the end isn't too hard, although a bit exciting. There's a two bolt anchor maybe 30' up and right above the roof, although it might be easier to downclimb/back-aid the pitch if you don't have someone that wants to follow it. Feb 25, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Years ago I was able to get the top with a hang, but never unlocked the secret to the first pitch. I would have reversed the grades on the two pitches and called the first pitch the crux. Nov 8, 2004