Avg: 3.2 from 10 votes
Trad, Sport, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches
|FA:||L. Dalke, C. Jennings (5.8 A4), 1967.FFA: D. Azin, M. Tarrant, 1986|
|Page Views:||3,409 total · 16/month|
|Shared By:||Mark Tarrant on Oct 28, 2004|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Pitch 1: 5.12b, 90'. Wander up Anthill Direct for about 50' to an old bolt, aiming for a 4' overhang followed by a shallow corner with a line of old pins. Pull past the overhang (.10+, #4 Friend), up the corner, and then move right past 2 bolts on a bulging, blank face (crux) to a 2-bolt anchor.
Pitch 2: 5.12c/d, 60'. Move up the steep, right-facing, right-leaning dihedral (.11) past pins and bolts. The crux comes about 30' up by a ring bolt. It involves some awkward laybacking and wild positioning. Finish through the roof atop the dihedral (.11, large Friends), then flip left onto an easy slab. There was an old fixed belay about 25' higher from which you could rap--I'm not sure what its present condition is.
Both pitches are good, but P1 gets done more than P2 partly because P2 had a reputation as an ankle breaker. Two prominent climbers did get injured on the 2nd ascent. The ring bolt was added later, and now this pitch is far safer. Book of Numbers is another unique Eldo route that combines a little history with feel of a modern sport climb.