Type: Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches, Grade II Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: Stan Shepard, Don Davis, 1958
Page Views: 5,701 total · 25/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

Curiosity got us & might get you to check out this historic wander. Although it was described as a popular beginner route in Rossiter's ole guide, I've never seen anyone on it, ever. It got a star, so we checked it out. I'm not sure I'd recommend it as a beginner route. So here comes perhaps a bit of obscurity.

Go to the left/West end of the bench behind Whale's Tail near The Bulge. Find a diagonalling, lower ramp going more left than up.

P1. Find a path of least resistance left along a ramp with somewhat polished scoops past 2 pins and a bolt (probably from another route). Place pro, go around a bulge then move down slightly. There is definitely terrain on this pitch that neither the leader nor the follower would be wise to scream/pitch off. Continue left & up. Rossiter's guide describes a poor belay that we chose to avoid (you'll probably be smarter than us & find a belay in here). This apparently has been upgraded with a bolt. There is a polished little wall with another pin that proves to be meaty for 5.4. I wouldn't recommend this for my 5.4 leading friends. Continue up the ramp left to the big tree at a large ledge. 250 feet, simulclimbing, 5.4d.

P2 or P3. Move down and right perhaps 30 feet to a path of least resistance. Up and right along a crack perhaps 50 feet. Rope drag makes the belay on this huge ledge useful. There are a few fixed pins or bolts here. 80 feet, 5.4.

P3 or P4. Go up and slightly right finding fun face climbing to a large ledge with a tree. You can exit off right here or, better, continue up to another ledge with a smaller tree. Belay. 5.4c/d.

From here, traverse off right to gain the East Slabs descent.

Protection

Light Eldo rack, long rope (60m min).

Photos