Type: Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II Fixed Hardware (9)
FA: Layton Kor
Page Views: 24,097 total · 99/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
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Description

This is an often-overlooked, long route with very good climbing. The run-out is only "5.6", though it feels a bit harder--the rest is well-protected.

P1. We started on Touch 'N' Go, which apparently is more common, as we had heard that the original first pitch was mediocre. [Edit: many commentators below are saying that it's worthwhile, as well as easier than Touch 'N' Go.]

P2. Surmount a small roof (5.8-) to get off the rotten band and off the belay ledge (or bypass the roof 15' up and left). Then follow a crack up and right to an obvious roof. Crank through the roof at 5.8 (great pro) and belay 10' higher. 130'.

P3. Head up and left on pocketed rock in the vicinity of a black water streak. Pay attention to find the easiest climbing; this is the runout 5.6. Your second should be solid for this section. Belay on a small ledge.

P4. Climb around to the right, passing several fixed pitons, and head for the arette. The turn back to the left, now heading for the bottom of the large roof. Belay just beneath the roof.

P5. From the belay, move right and up through the roof where it turns more into a dihedral. Several layback moves get you through it at 5.9- with great pro. Climb easy slabs to the top.

In either case, descend the vast 4th-class slab to the NE, aiming for a cairn on an outcrop. Go left below it into a 4th-class gully, and hike around to the trail from the bottom of it.

Protection

Bring a standard rack.

Photos