Avg: 3.3 from 351 votes
Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II
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|Shared By:||Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
This is an often-overlooked, long route with very good climbing. The run-out is only "5.6", though it feels a bit harder--the rest is well-protected.
P1. We started on Touch 'N' Go, which apparently is more common, as we had heard that the original first pitch was mediocre. [Edit: many commentators below are saying that it's worthwhile, as well as easier than Touch 'N' Go.]
P2. Surmount a small roof (5.8-) to get off the rotten band and off the belay ledge (or bypass the roof 15' up and left). Then follow a crack up and right to an obvious roof. Crank through the roof at 5.8 (great pro) and belay 10' higher. 130'. Per Doug Haller: the belay stance is in a pod with an old pin above head height. 130'. The start of P2 now has two rap anchors. The are out of sight from the top of Touch 'N' Go. From the top of Touch 'N' Go, walk/scramble toward the second pitch and down to locate the fixed anchors.
P3. Head up and left on pocketed rock in the vicinity of a black water streak. Pay attention to find the easiest climbing; this is the runout 5.6. Your second should be solid for this section. Belay on a small ledge beneath a roof, 100'.
P4. Climb around to the right (following a crack of varying width), passing several fixed pitons, and head for the arete. The turn back to the left, now heading for the bottom of the large roof. Belay just beneath the roof.
P5. From the belay, move right and up through the roof where it turns more into a dihedral. Several layback moves get you through it at 5.9- with great pro. Climb easy slabs to the top. Per Doug Haller: after the roof, follow the crack system for about 20 feet. Continue up slabs for about another 80-100 feet. Locate a horizontal crack and set up a belay there with several cams from size 0.5 to 2.
In either case, descend the vast 4th Class slab to the NE (per Doug Haller: you are ~2/3 of the way down the slab and just above the final steep scramble to the trail), aiming for a cairn on an outcrop. Go left below it into a 4th Class gully, and hike around to the trail from the bottom of it.