Avg: 3.3 from 325 votes
Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II
|Page Views:||24,097 total · 99/month|
|Shared By:||Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
P1. We started on Touch 'N' Go, which apparently is more common, as we had heard that the original first pitch was mediocre. [Edit: many commentators below are saying that it's worthwhile, as well as easier than Touch 'N' Go.]
P2. Surmount a small roof (5.8-) to get off the rotten band and off the belay ledge (or bypass the roof 15' up and left). Then follow a crack up and right to an obvious roof. Crank through the roof at 5.8 (great pro) and belay 10' higher. 130'.
P3. Head up and left on pocketed rock in the vicinity of a black water streak. Pay attention to find the easiest climbing; this is the runout 5.6. Your second should be solid for this section. Belay on a small ledge.
P4. Climb around to the right, passing several fixed pitons, and head for the arette. The turn back to the left, now heading for the bottom of the large roof. Belay just beneath the roof.
P5. From the belay, move right and up through the roof where it turns more into a dihedral. Several layback moves get you through it at 5.9- with great pro. Climb easy slabs to the top.
In either case, descend the vast 4th-class slab to the NE, aiming for a cairn on an outcrop. Go left below it into a 4th-class gully, and hike around to the trail from the bottom of it.