Type: Trad, 130 ft (39 m) Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Pat Ament and Gary Spitzer, 1966.
Page Views: 23,860 total · 96/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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This is a great 1-pitch climb, often used as a start to the Naked Edge or Anthill Direct, and even more often done on its own. The climb begins just down below the prominent, chalked-up "roof routes", right where the roof begins. If taking the trail that passes C'est La Vie and Genesis, you'll discover the start after rounding a corner and coming out of some trees.

Begin by hand traversing under a small roof and go around it on the left (first crux, #2 Friend). You can also thread a runner or large wired nut through a hole to protect this crux. Turn the roof, and continue up thin opposing flakes to a ledge/groove. You can set up an optional belay here from good gear. This is a good idea if you expect your second may have trouble at the crux roof.

Follow the groove up left to a thin, obtuse dihedral and climb than with perfect fingerlocks to a bolted belay. The second crux comes at a bulge near the top of the dihedral. You can protect this with a small cam in a pod in the corner.

Descent options:

* A double-rope rappel from the top anchor.

* A single rappel with a 70m rope from the top anchor will just barely make it to the ground.

* A single-rope rappel from the top anchor down to the anchor below the dihedral (top of Scratch and Sniff), and a second single-rope rappel from there. The stance at the Scratch and Sniff anchor is a little awkward and a bit to the left of the top anchor.

* Traverse over to the top of the second pitch of Redguard, and do two single-rope rappels from bolts/chains down Redguard.

Variations: all three dihedrals just to the right of the start are climbable at similar grades with less-than-ideal pro; a great variation, called Bolting for Glory, is to climb the first half of the route to the groove, and then continue straight up past 4 bolts on 5.10a face climbing. Traverse left at the top to reach the belay.


Small Stoppers and TCUs, up to a #2.5 Friend (1 or 2 RPs to sew it up), 2 #2.5 Friends may be useful.