Avg: 3.3 from 458 votes
Trad, 130 ft (39 m)
|FA:||Pat Ament and Gary Spitzer, 1966.|
|Page Views:||23,860 total · 96/month|
|Shared By:||Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Begin by hand traversing under a small roof and go around it on the left (first crux, #2 Friend). You can also thread a runner or large wired nut through a hole to protect this crux. Turn the roof, and continue up thin opposing flakes to a ledge/groove. You can set up an optional belay here from good gear. This is a good idea if you expect your second may have trouble at the crux roof.
Follow the groove up left to a thin, obtuse dihedral and climb than with perfect fingerlocks to a bolted belay. The second crux comes at a bulge near the top of the dihedral. You can protect this with a small cam in a pod in the corner.
* A double-rope rappel from the top anchor.
* A single rappel with a 70m rope from the top anchor will just barely make it to the ground.
* A single-rope rappel from the top anchor down to the anchor below the dihedral (top of Scratch and Sniff), and a second single-rope rappel from there. The stance at the Scratch and Sniff anchor is a little awkward and a bit to the left of the top anchor.
* Traverse over to the top of the second pitch of Redguard, and do two single-rope rappels from bolts/chains down Redguard.
Variations: all three dihedrals just to the right of the start are climbable at similar grades with less-than-ideal pro; a great variation, called Bolting for Glory, is to climb the first half of the route to the groove, and then continue straight up past 4 bolts on 5.10a face climbing. Traverse left at the top to reach the belay.