Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 90 ft (27 m)|
|Page Views:||3,427 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||Pinklebear on Apr 17, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
You can recognize this route by a black streak down low, which leads to a horn at mid-height, topped off by a long, green face tilted back at 88 degrees, and an easier crack to finish. This pitch finishes at the anchors atop Fool's Learn and can easily be toproped (bring some gear to back up the funky fixed jive).
Boulder off the ramp on flaky rock, which quickly improves. Crank left into the offset seam, placing small RP's and getting creative with stoppers (5.11). The seam leads to a horn and a nice rest stance. Sling the horn (a double-length or Rabbit runner is nice here) and run it out up the green face on crisp, but somewhat cripsy edges (5.10 vs). A thank-God jug appears just after you enter the deck fall zone ...
Easier climbing leads to the anchors.