Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Eric Johnson, Mike Schlauch
Page Views: 4,236 total · 55/month
Shared By: EDJ Johnson on Oct 8, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


This is a new classic for the crag. Two separate pitches on either side of the upper ramp make for a slew of new link up options. Eldo gear skills are a must as the bolts only protect where gear does not. The rock quality is excellent, the climbing is varied and sustained, and the pitches are both long.


Begin from the belay at the top of the third pitch of The Wisdom. This point can be reached in many ways: from Guenese up to The Wisdom. Move up the arete from the anchor 10' then left, out on to the face to a key RP. Pass this (.10b PG-13) straight up to more gear and moderate climbing until the ledge on the Le Toit exit pitch is reached. Move right up several moves on Le Toit then step left into shallow, left-facing corner. Climb this past three bolts to the face above (.11c), then move left along strata to belay on upper ramp. The next pitch starts on the first move of Love Minus Zero then follows a rising finger traverse left to the first bolt. Bust past this, then find gear moving left to the second bolt (.10a PG-13). Clip third bolt and move up to the foot ledge and place a 3" cam for the second. Move left to the bolt on the arete, pass a second bolt there, then stand back up onto the face to place a 00 Alien in a key slot. Moderate climbing past a good RP leads up to the bolt in the roof. Crank out left to a nice stance above the roof. Move up and right past an undercling (actually reversing a move on Love Minus Zero here), then go up and right again to steep, splitter crack which leads to several easy bulges and finally the big horn belay. Finish with Seams Beyond or escape on the T2 exit.


Standard Eldo rack...add an extra 00 Alien. Clip 3 bolts for the first new pitch to a natural arch anchor and 6 bolts above the upper ramp to a large horn anchor.
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
Yo, punters!
Nicely done! Once again Eric proves he has more energy then 12 monkies jacked up on copious amounts of espresso. Mike does a great job gettin' it done and keepin an eye out for Eric. Classic name to boot. Steve S. Oct 8, 2012
This route was approved during the 2012 Summer/Fall FHRC session. Here is a link to the application. All bolts are 0.5" x 4.75" stainless steel. A black Alien &/or RP will protect the moves to the first bolt on pitch 2. Thanks to the FHRC for facilitating the new route process. Enjoy.
aceeldo.org/fhrc/applicatio… Oct 8, 2012
Adam Brink
on the road
Adam Brink   on the road
Nice work, guys! We saw you putting in the final bolts when we did Green Willow Wall last week. Your new climb is a proud looking line! I can't wait to sample it. Thanks for the hard work. Oct 8, 2012
Wow! Thanks for dragging me up the second pitch, Eric. What an impressive pitch: multiple cruxes, varied climbing, incredible position. 12a sounds right... if you have x-ray vision for blind holds and endless endurance! Oct 24, 2012
Scott Bennett
5.12a PG13
Scott Bennett   Michigan
5.12a PG13
WOW, what a wild line! Thanks guys, this route is worthy.

Both pitches are far from "one-move-wonders"! P1 features sustained, hyper-techy crimps and stems up a blank corner; I kept thinking that I'd done the crux, only to find one more baffling sequence.

P2 is a sampler plate of Eldo weirdness (in a good way). We felt like there were four different cruxes, from 5.11- to 5.12-. Burly reaches, heady crimping, powerful arete climbing, and a funky roof to cap it all!

This route gets plenty of sun; I hope it see a bunch of traffic this winter. It's a safe outing for the Eldo 12a leader.

-Scott Nov 14, 2012
Such a great route!

Thanks for putting this one up.

HK Jan 29, 2013
Brad G  
A fun route but p.1 is maybe the most sandbagged climbing I've been on in Eldo. P.3 on The Wisdom is a good warmup for this thin monster. I love the Arete on p.2.... Feb 3, 2013
Just saw this surfing MP from the couch. Starting to get back to climbing again after shoulder surgery this year. Hope I can get back to where I can get on this. Looks awesome! Nice job, guys! Nov 12, 2013
Corey Flynn   USA
Call me light, but I backed down off the first pitch of this thing today after going up The Wisdom. The placement of the first bolt is very questionable. If it were a foot lower, it would be safe and easy to clip, but for some reason, you are forced into an awful stance to clip from that would be easy to botch with dangerous fall potential. Maybe it's easier to clip if you are tall? Oh well, this one is going to bother me til I do it now, so I'll post back after I have made it to the other side. Never see anyone on this thing, it would probably get some nice traffic if it was established in favor of attracting repeat ascents which is what I've heard about 'Without a Net' and can confirm on 'Between Heaven and Earth.' Mar 7, 2018
EDJ Johnson
Eldorado Springs, Colorado
EDJ Johnson   Eldorado Springs, Colorado
A little background on the first bolt of the second pitch. I wanted to keep this route in the character of nearby routes so it was sparsely bolted to begin with. I feel the style is in keeping with the sporty bolt protected Eldo adventure routes. New bolted routes hadn't been going in up there at the time and I was sensitive to the perception that it would be a sport line in the middle of the classic trad wall if I applied for more bolts than I did. I'll admit the bolt is high and hard to clip. I wanted it to protect climbing higher up as well as the initial crux and didn't want to place a second bolt in the area. I placed a small cam high and to the right to protect the clip. Think high ball and make the clip, it sets the tone for the rest of the 70m pitch nicely! Mar 7, 2018
dameeser   denver
That bolt is in a bullshit spot, and it should be moved down a little so people can clip it safely. Mar 10, 2018
EDJ Johnson
Eldorado Springs, Colorado
EDJ Johnson   Eldorado Springs, Colorado
Yes, lower would be better, I agree, and I'd welcome the effort if somebody wanted to do it. However, just to be clear that would not make it safe. You are still way off the deck and pitching is not an option either way. If it were safe (a sport climb) there would be three bolts leading up to that spot. Mar 10, 2018
I agree that both of the first bolts on P1 and P2 should be lowered. Email me if you want to help. We worked on that route for a long time before applying, and we probably had it a bit too wired by the time we put the bolts in...and Eric has a really long reach. I went back up there recently, and I totally agree it can be improved. The climbing is great and deserves more traffic. Cheers
Update: went up there on 4/4 and lowered the first bolt on p2 so now it's a much easier clip. First bolt on p1 is also fixed. Mar 16, 2018