Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Eric Johnson, Mike Schlauch
Page Views: 5,012 total · 52/month
Shared By: EDJ Johnson on Oct 8, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a new classic for the crag. Two separate pitches on either side of the upper ramp make for a slew of new link up options. Eldo gear skills are a must as the bolts only protect where gear does not. The rock quality is excellent, the climbing is varied and sustained, and the pitches are both long.

Location

Begin from the belay at the top of the third pitch of The Wisdom. This point can be reached in many ways: from Guenese up to The Wisdom. Move up the arete from the anchor 10' then left, out on to the face to a key RP. Pass this (.10b PG-13) straight up to more gear and moderate climbing until the ledge on the Le Toit exit pitch is reached. Move right up several moves on Le Toit then step left into shallow, left-facing corner. Climb this past three bolts to the face above (.11c), then move left along strata to belay on upper ramp. The next pitch starts on the first move of Love Minus Zero then follows a rising finger traverse left to the first bolt. Bust past this, then find gear moving left to the second bolt (.10a PG-13). Clip third bolt and move up to the foot ledge and place a 3" cam for the second. Move left to the bolt on the arete, pass a second bolt there, then stand back up onto the face to place a 00 Alien in a key slot. Moderate climbing past a good RP leads up to the bolt in the roof. Crank out left to a nice stance above the roof. Move up and right past an undercling (actually reversing a move on Love Minus Zero here), then go up and right again to steep, splitter crack which leads to several easy bulges and finally the big horn belay. Finish with Seams Beyond or escape on the T2 exit.

Protection

Standard Eldo rack...add an extra 00 Alien. Clip 3 bolts for the first new pitch to a natural arch anchor and 6 bolts above the upper ramp to a large horn anchor.

Photos