Avg: 3.6 from 57 votes
Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches
|FA:||Steve Wunsch, Jim Erickson|
|Page Views:||18,543 total · 79/month|
|Shared By:||Alex Hearn on Jul 26, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
This is a 6 pitch line starting with T2 but immediately breaking left at the 1st pin over the roof. Follow good holds past another pin and up to a shallow roof, clip that pin and head left on positive underclings to a line of buttonheads over a bulge. Continue up to an obvious belay perch. Numerous draws & slings are helpful.
P2.- Head up & left following the obvious line into a large chimney/dihedral with many pounds of bird shit lining the rock, and belay at the base of Naked Edge (5.8+ (the + due to turd-smearing)).
P3.- Follow a left leaning, right-facing dihedral with a pillar on small fingers and good stemming to a small roof (smaller wires & Aliens), place a couple of bomber nuts (you don't want to belay here) and run out the remaining 15 feet straight up on smaller holds (.11a). Follow the rotten band up & left for 50 feet on easier terrain to a belay/rap station just left of Lene's Dream, which I think might make a better finish to this pitch - - although I haven't done it yet. The remaining pitches follow easier rock to the top with an isolated .10a roof move, and a slab finish. There is also an option to join the upper pitches of Lene's Dream.
This is a stellar line if only for the climbing. Factor in the historical significance of bold ground-up ascents in Eldo, and it's a must-do!