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Routes in Redgarden - Tower Two
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10,000 Leagues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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After The Gold Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Avoid the Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Between Heaven and Earth T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bolter's Lament T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A2 |
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Bolting for Glory T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Briny Deep, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Cave Pitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Centaur T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Contest, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Diving Board, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fools Learn TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Genius Loci S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Ghoul's Turn T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Green Willow Wall T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Hayden's Line T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Inset, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Jules Verne T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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King Tut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Le Void T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Lene's Dream T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Love Minus Zero T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Naked Edge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Natural Mystic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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No Lo Contendere T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Old Bad Aid Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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One Way Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Orifophobia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Physical Graffiti S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Plastic Jesus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Predator T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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PsychGillLogical T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rosy Crucifixion T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Scratch and Sniff T,S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Seams Beyond T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Seams Beyond Variation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Seize of Holds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Serpent, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Shasta T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Sickness Unto Death S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Slots of Fun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slow Train Coming T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Straight Edge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Superlink, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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T2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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T2 Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Touch 'N' Go T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Venus de Milo T,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Weeping Willow T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Wild Kingdom T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Wingless Victory S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: |
Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches
Fixed Hardware
(3) |
| FA: | Steve Wunsch, Jim Erickson |
| Page Views: | 19,510 total · 78/month |
| Shared By: | Alex Hearn on Jul 26, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This route has been somewhat immortalized by the local film Scary Faces, which has fueled the idea that it is a desperate & frightening run to the top of Redgarden. It's not. While it certainly brings a little spice to the leader's day, and for me, a serious dose of paste-mouth, it isn't the scare-fest some have made it out to be.
This is a 6 pitch line starting with T2 but immediately breaking left at the 1st pin over the roof. Follow good holds past another pin and up to a shallow roof, clip that pin and head left on positive underclings to a line of buttonheads over a bulge. Continue up to an obvious belay perch. Numerous draws & slings are helpful.
P2.- Head up & left following the obvious line into a large chimney/dihedral with many pounds of bird shit lining the rock, and belay at the base of Naked Edge (5.8+ (the + due to turd-smearing)).
P3.- Follow a left leaning, right-facing dihedral with a pillar on small fingers and good stemming to a small roof (smaller wires & Aliens), place a couple of bomber nuts (you don't want to belay here) and run out the remaining 15 feet straight up on smaller holds (.11a). Follow the rotten band up & left for 50 feet on easier terrain to a belay/rap station just left of Lene's Dream, which I think might make a better finish to this pitch - - although I haven't done it yet. The remaining pitches follow easier rock to the top with an isolated .10a roof move, and a slab finish. There is also an option to join the upper pitches of Lene's Dream.
This is a stellar line if only for the climbing. Factor in the historical significance of bold ground-up ascents in Eldo, and it's a must-do!
This is a 6 pitch line starting with T2 but immediately breaking left at the 1st pin over the roof. Follow good holds past another pin and up to a shallow roof, clip that pin and head left on positive underclings to a line of buttonheads over a bulge. Continue up to an obvious belay perch. Numerous draws & slings are helpful.
P2.- Head up & left following the obvious line into a large chimney/dihedral with many pounds of bird shit lining the rock, and belay at the base of Naked Edge (5.8+ (the + due to turd-smearing)).
P3.- Follow a left leaning, right-facing dihedral with a pillar on small fingers and good stemming to a small roof (smaller wires & Aliens), place a couple of bomber nuts (you don't want to belay here) and run out the remaining 15 feet straight up on smaller holds (.11a). Follow the rotten band up & left for 50 feet on easier terrain to a belay/rap station just left of Lene's Dream, which I think might make a better finish to this pitch - - although I haven't done it yet. The remaining pitches follow easier rock to the top with an isolated .10a roof move, and a slab finish. There is also an option to join the upper pitches of Lene's Dream.
This is a stellar line if only for the climbing. Factor in the historical significance of bold ground-up ascents in Eldo, and it's a must-do!
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