Type: Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches Fixed Hardware (3)
FA: Steve Wunsch, Jim Erickson
Page Views: 17,329 total · 78/month
Shared By: Alex Hearn on Jul 26, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
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Description

This route has been somewhat immortalized by the local film Scary Faces, which has fueled the idea that it is a desperate & frightening run to the top of Redgarden. It's not. While it certainly brings a little spice to the leader's day, and for me, a serious dose of paste-mouth, it isn't the scare-fest some have made it out to be.

This is a 6 pitch line starting with T2 but immediately breaking left at the 1st pin over the roof. Follow good holds past another pin and up to a shallow roof, clip that pin and head left on positive underclings to a line of buttonheads over a bulge. Continue up to an obvious belay perch. Numerous draws & slings are helpful.

P2.- Head up & left following the obvious line into a large chimney/dihedral with many pounds of bird shit lining the rock, and belay at the base of Naked Edge (5.8+ (the + due to turd-smearing)).

P3.- Follow a left leaning, right-facing dihedral with a pillar on small fingers and good stemming to a small roof (smaller wires & Aliens), place a couple of bomber nuts (you don't want to belay here) and run out the remaining 15 feet straight up on smaller holds (.11a). Follow the rotten band up & left for 50 feet on easier terrain to a belay/rap station just left of Lene's Dream, which I think might make a better finish to this pitch - - although I haven't done it yet. The remaining pitches follow easier rock to the top with an isolated .10a roof move, and a slab finish. There is also an option to join the upper pitches of Lene's Dream.

This is a stellar line if only for the climbing. Factor in the historical significance of bold ground-up ascents in Eldo, and it's a must-do!

Protection

Standard Eldo rack with many smaller wires - - I didn't use anything larger than a #1 Camalot.

Photos