Avg: 3.6 from 52 votes
Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches
|FA:||Steve Wunsch, Jim Erickson|
|Page Views:||17,329 total · 78/month|
|Shared By:||Alex Hearn on Jul 26, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
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Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
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This is a 6 pitch line starting with T2 but immediately breaking left at the 1st pin over the roof. Follow good holds past another pin and up to a shallow roof, clip that pin and head left on positive underclings to a line of buttonheads over a bulge. Continue up to an obvious belay perch. Numerous draws & slings are helpful.
P2.- Head up & left following the obvious line into a large chimney/dihedral with many pounds of bird shit lining the rock, and belay at the base of Naked Edge (5.8+ (the + due to turd-smearing)).
P3.- Follow a left leaning, right-facing dihedral with a pillar on small fingers and good stemming to a small roof (smaller wires & Aliens), place a couple of bomber nuts (you don't want to belay here) and run out the remaining 15 feet straight up on smaller holds (.11a). Follow the rotten band up & left for 50 feet on easier terrain to a belay/rap station just left of Lene's Dream, which I think might make a better finish to this pitch - - although I haven't done it yet. The remaining pitches follow easier rock to the top with an isolated .10a roof move, and a slab finish. There is also an option to join the upper pitches of Lene's Dream.
This is a stellar line if only for the climbing. Factor in the historical significance of bold ground-up ascents in Eldo, and it's a must-do!