Type: | Trad, 275 ft (83 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Charlie Fowler, Bill Feiges, 1977 |
Page Views: | 1,589 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Guy H. on May 9, 2011 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Per Mike McHugh, ECSP: The upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin and the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately.
This includes the Continental Crag climbing area.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing and hiking, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the south side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately.
This includes the Continental Crag climbing area.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing and hiking, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the south side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
King Tut is on Steve Levin obscure tour. It is a worthy objective, but you should have your act together before attempting it. There is quite a bit of loose rock, but all hard moves are off solid features. It is quite intimidating from below, but decent gear can be found every ~10 feet on the crux pitch.
P1: Start up steep huecos to the starting crack on T2 off of the upper ramp. When T2 breaks left, continue up the steep, left-facing, black groove. The crux bulge is 2/3rds of the way up the 1st pitch. Solid gear can be found and it is at your feet as you pull the funky crux moves. A final awkward bulge leads to a belay ledge on the right. Bring a long sling for the belay horn.
P2a: The original 2nd pitch heads straight up from the belay on steep rock. This pitch finishes on runout 5.5 slabs to the T2 belay (5.8R).
P2b: An alternate P2 cuts left on a crack system with good exposure and gear to the T2 crack system (5.8+).
P1: Start up steep huecos to the starting crack on T2 off of the upper ramp. When T2 breaks left, continue up the steep, left-facing, black groove. The crux bulge is 2/3rds of the way up the 1st pitch. Solid gear can be found and it is at your feet as you pull the funky crux moves. A final awkward bulge leads to a belay ledge on the right. Bring a long sling for the belay horn.
P2a: The original 2nd pitch heads straight up from the belay on steep rock. This pitch finishes on runout 5.5 slabs to the T2 belay (5.8R).
P2b: An alternate P2 cuts left on a crack system with good exposure and gear to the T2 crack system (5.8+).
Location
King Tut starts left of the Naked Edge on the upper ramp. It shares the start of the classic T2 finger crack pitch.
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