Elevation: 6,252 ft
GPS: 39.931, -105.285 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 181,526 total · 1,036/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Some will arguably consider this the premier section of the premier cliff of the premier area for the Denver Metro area. Many will agree that it contains the premier route for the area with The Naked Edge. This section of Redgarden Wall will include terrain left of Redguard extending to Ruper and including all above the Roof Routes and above the Lower Ramp.

Wow, what an amazing stretch of rock with an amazing history. It all began, as documneted in B. Godfrey's & D. Chelton's Climb!, with the first ascent of T2 by Layton Kor & Gerry Roach in 1959, starting with the intro by Kor of "want to go climbing tomorrow, Gerry?", "Sure, Layton, what's up?", "Uh, just a route in Eldorado. I'll pick you up at 4 a.m." The climb proceeded as planned with the classic-Kor statements during the ascent of "This route's gotta go!" and Tower Two was opened for climbing.

The famous Naked Edge began with Stanley Sheperd visualizing a line up this same buttress while reading the lurid novel Naked Edge (which has been made into a movie). The unstoppable Kor followed a terrified retreat off the line with S. Komito with success in 1962 with B. Culp to open this most famous line. In 1971, Jim Erickson & Duncan Ferguson fulfilled Pat Ament's vision of a free Naked Edge. Subsequently, it has become the goal of ultra-bold soloists and even captured on film of the late-Derek Hersey soloing Naked Edge (along with The Diving Board) in Peter Mortimer's excellent Front Range Freaks. However, note this is a bold line has hazards for even gifted climbers. Some may recall the incredible story documented in Jeff Achey's Climb and in an article in Rock & Ice of Coral Bowman, in 1978, who rappelled off her line and in superhuman fashion grabbed and caught herself barehanded with her haul line, & horribly burned her hands. She saved own her life but the experience completely changed her climbing career. So, be careful up there.

Many videos have celebrated the spectacular climbing here including Peter Mortimer's excellent Scary Faces with its focus on Jules Verne, Beth Bennett & Lynn Hill's video on an early all-female free attempt (title?), and others.

Some of the classics here include: the popular Touch 'n Go, 5.9; the daring route, The Serpent, 5.10b s; T2, 5.10d s; the intimidating The Diving Board, 5.11a; the ultra-classic The Naked Edge, 5.11b; the demanding Lene's Dream, 5.11b s; Love Minus Zero, 5.11c s: the intimidating Jules Verne, 5.11c s/vs; the near-sport route, The Contest, 5.11d; Green Willow Wall, 5.11d s; Rise Above aka Mr. Malcontent, 5.12a; and the super-exposed Wingless Victory, 5.13b.

The climbs here are what many of us dream about and live for!

It would be wise to plan your descents before you leave the ground since none are completely obvious. Many of the lines that go to the top can be descended with at least 4 methods. 1) You can rappel the Swanson Arete or Dirty Deed rappels with double ropes. 2) You can downscramble the East Slabs Descent (plan - to be fleshed out with its own separate description) low 4th class- note this is exposed, lengthy, and particularly slippery when wet. You may wind up a long way from your gear and comfortable shoes. Also, the last bit can be challenging in the spring with a wet slab finish or funky downclimb down a chimney. 3) you can rappel the Chockstone Chimney rappels which take you to the top of the Upper Ramp or Meadows. Here, you can rappel the Vertigo rappels (60m or 2 ropes) or carefully descend the Upper Meadows to the rappels below The Naked Edge. 4) You perform the lengthy traverse W or left off the top going to the top of Redgarden Wall around Hot Spur and into the 3rd class+ gully.

Getting There

To access this section of Redgarden Wall, you should park at the east end of Eldorado Canyon SP, hike uphill briefly, cross the bridge. Here you may choose one of 2 approaches depending on your exact line and preference. To access the furthest R routes, you can hike either around either the L of the The Whale's Tail or you continue upstream, cross the concrete pad, follow the trail, take the right fork and you arrived nearly at the base of T2.

54 Total Climbs

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Location: Redgarden - Tower Two Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Redgarden - Tower Two

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 417
Touch 'N' Go
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 92
Bolting for Glory
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
 401
Rosy Crucifixion
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 28
The Serpent
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
 130
T2
Trad 7 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 46
The Diving Board
Trad 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 338
The Naked Edge
Trad 6 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
 50
Jules Verne
Trad 6 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
 24
Lene's Dream
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
 8
Green Willow Wall
Trad, Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 21
Genius Loci
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 25
The Contest
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 3
Between Heaven and Earth
Trad 3 pitches
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
 3
Hayden's Line
Trad 4 pitches
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 6
Centaur
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Touch 'N' Go
 417
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Bolting for Glory
 92
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Rosy Crucifixion
 401
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 3 pitches
The Serpent
 28
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad
T2
 130
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R Trad 7 pitches
The Diving Board
 46
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
The Naked Edge
 338
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 6 pitches
Jules Verne
 50
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad 6 pitches
Lene's Dream
 24
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R Trad
Green Willow Wall
 8
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R Trad, Sport
Genius Loci
 21
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
The Contest
 25
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Between Heaven and Earth
 3
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad 3 pitches
Hayden's Line
 3
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Centaur
 6
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Trad 2 pitches
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