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Redgarden - Tower Two

Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall
Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Some will arguably consider this the premier section of the premier cliff of the premier area for the Denver Metro area. Many will agree that it contains the premier route for the area with The Naked Edge. This section of Redgarden Wall will include terrain left of Redguard extending to Ruper and including all above the Roof Routes and above the Lower Ramp.

Wow, what an amazing stretch of rock with an amazing history. It all began, as documneted in B. Godfrey's & D. Chelton's Climb!, with the first ascent of T2 by Layton Kor & Gerry Roach in 1959, starting with the intro by Kor of "want to go climbing tomorrow, Gerry?", "Sure, Layton, what's up?", "Uh, just a route in Eldorado. I'll pick you up at 4 a.m." The climb proceeded as planned with the classic-Kor statements during the ascent of "This route's gotta go!" and Tower Two was opened for climbing.

The famous Naked Edge began with Stanley Sheperd visualizing a line up this same buttress while reading the lurid novel Naked Edge (which has been made into a movie). The unstoppable Kor followed a terrified retreat off the line with S. Komito with success in 1962 with B. Culp to open this most famous line. In 1971, Jim Erickson & Duncan Ferguson fulfilled Pat Ament's vision of a free Naked Edge. Subsequently, it has become the goal of ultra-bold soloists and even captured on film of the late-Derek Hersey soloing Naked Edge (along with The Diving Board) in Peter Mortimer's excellent Front Range Freaks. However, note this is a bold line has hazards for even gifted climbers. Some may recall the incredible story documented in Jeff Achey's Climb and in an article in Rock & Ice of Coral Bowman, in 1978, who rappelled off her line and in superhuman fashion grabbed and caught herself barehanded with her haul line, & horribly burned her hands. She saved own her life but the experience completely changed her climbing career. So, be careful up there.

Many videos have celebrated the spectacular climbing here including Peter Mortimer's excellent Scary Faces with its focus on Jules Verne, Beth Bennett & Lynn Hill's video on an early all-female free attempt (title?), and others.

Some of the classics here include: the popular Touch 'n Go, 5.9; the daring route, The Serpent, 5.10b s; T2, 5.10d s; the intimidating The Diving Board, 5.11a; the ultra-classic The Naked Edge, 5.11b; the demanding Lene's Dream, 5.11b s; Love Minus Zero, 5.11c s: the intimidating Jules Verne, 5.11c s/vs; the near-sport route, The Contest, 5.11d; Green Willow Wall, 5.11d s; Rise Above aka Mr. Malcontent, 5.12a; and the super-exposed Wingless Victory, 5.13b.

The climbs here are what many of us dream about and live for!

It would be wise to plan your descents before you leave the ground since none are completely obvious. Many of the lines that go to the top can be descended with at least 4 methods. 1) You can rappel the Swanson Arete or Dirty Deed rappels with double ropes. 2) You can downscramble the East Slabs Descent (plan - to be fleshed out with its own separate description) low 4th class- note this is exposed, lengthy, and particularly slippery when wet. You may wind up a long way from your gear and comfortable shoes. Also, the last bit can be challenging in the spring with a wet slab finish or funky downclimb down a chimney. 3) you can rappel the Chockstone Chimney rappels which take you to the top of the Upper Ramp or Meadows. Here, you can rappel the Vertigo rappels (60m or 2 ropes) or carefully descend the Upper Meadows to the rappels below The Naked Edge. 4) You perform the lengthy traverse W or left off the top going to the top of Redgarden Wall around Hot Spur and into the 3rd class+ gully.

Getting There

To access this section of Redgarden Wall, you should park at the east end of Eldorado Canyon SP, hike uphill briefly, cross the bridge. Here you may choose one of 2 approaches depending on your exact line and preference. To access the furthest R routes, you can hike either around either the L of the The Whale's Tail or you continue upstream, cross the concrete pad, follow the trail, take the right fork and you arrived nearly at the base of T2.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 3
Shasta
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 26
The Serpent
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent
Trad, Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
 9
Le Void
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 1
Avoid the Rush
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 2
After The Gold Rush
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 4
King Tut
Trad 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
 2
Ghoul's Turn
Trad, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
 6
Love Minus Zero
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 6
Physical Graffiti
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 2
Fools Learn
TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
 1
Weeping Willow
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
 8
Green Willow Wall
Trad, Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
 1
10,000 Leagues
Trad 3 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
 22
Lene's Dream
Trad
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
 4
Wingless Victory
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 20
Genius Loci
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
 4
Sickness Unto Death
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 291
The Naked Edge
Trad 6 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 24
Slow Train Coming
Trad, Sport
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
 2
Hayden's Line
Trad 4 pitches
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 2
Between Heaven and Earth
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 55
Cave Pitch
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 41
The Diving Board
Trad 4 pitches
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 5
Centaur
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 15
Predator
Trad, Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 7
Wild Kingdom
Trad, Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
 12
Plastic Jesus
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
 372
Rosy Crucifixion
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 1
The Superlink
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A2
 1
Bolter's Lament
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
 2
Jules Verne Straight Up First Pi…
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
 49
Jules Verne
Trad 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 22
T2 Direct Finish
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
 124
T2
Trad 7 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
 2
Seams Beyond Variation
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 5
Seams Beyond
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 2
One Way Out
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Natural Mystic
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
 4
Old Bad Aid Crack
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 13
Scratch and Sniff
Trad, Sport, TR
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 377
Touch 'N' Go
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 87
Bolting for Glory
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 5
The Inset
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 20
No Lo Contendere
Trad, Sport, TR
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X
 1
Element X
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 22
The Contest
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
PsychGillLogical
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 1
The Briny Deep
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny o…
Sport
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 1
Venus de Milo
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 2
Seize of Holds
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 2
Orifophobia
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Slots of Fun
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Shasta
 3
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad 3 pitches
The Serpent
 26
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
Le Void
 9
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R Trad
Avoid the Rush
 1
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
After The Gold Rush
 2
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
King Tut
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad 2 pitches
Ghoul's Turn
 2
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X Trad, TR
Love Minus Zero
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R Trad 2 pitches
Physical Graffiti
 6
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Fools Learn
 2
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c TR
Weeping Willow
 1
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X Trad
Green Willow Wall
 8
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R Trad, Sport
10,000 Leagues
 1
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R Trad 3 pitches
Lene's Dream
 22
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R Trad
Wingless Victory
 4
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R Sport
Genius Loci
 20
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Sickness Unto Death
 4
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 Sport
The Naked Edge
 291
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 6 pitches
Slow Train Coming
 24
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Hayden's Line
 2
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Between Heaven and Earth
 2
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad 3 pitches
Cave Pitch
 55
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Diving Board
 41
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Centaur
 5
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Trad 2 pitches
Predator
 15
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport
Wild Kingdom
 7
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport
Plastic Jesus
 12
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad
Rosy Crucifixion
 372
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 3 pitches
The Superlink
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
Bolter's Lament
 1
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A2 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Jules Verne Straight Up Fir…
 2
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad
Jules Verne
 49
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad 6 pitches
T2 Direct Finish
 22
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
T2
 124
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R Trad 7 pitches
Seams Beyond Variation
 2
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R Trad
Seams Beyond
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad
One Way Out
 2
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad
Natural Mystic
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Old Bad Aid Crack
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R Trad
Scratch and Sniff
 13
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport, TR
Touch 'N' Go
 377
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Bolting for Glory
 87
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Inset
 5
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
No Lo Contendere
 20
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport, TR
Element X
 1
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X Trad
The Contest
 22
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
PsychGillLogical
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
The Briny Deep
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrut…
 8
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Venus de Milo
 1
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Trad, TR
Seize of Holds
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Orifophobia
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
Slots of Fun
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Redgarden Wall with the Naked Edge in the sun. November '08.
[Hide Photo] Redgarden Wall with the Naked Edge in the sun. November '08.
Redgarden Wall, showing the major features and the general location of several classic climbs.<br>
<br>
[Hide Photo] Redgarden Wall, showing the major features and the general location of several classic climbs.
The expansive upper headwall of Tower Two.
[Hide Photo] The expansive upper headwall of Tower Two.
Skip Guerin practice climbing on Tower Two, jugging Centaur, photo: Bob Horan Collection.
[Hide Photo] Skip Guerin practice climbing on Tower Two, jugging Centaur, photo: Bob Horan Collection.
The right side of Redgarden Wall. The South Buttress has classic climbs like Anthill Direct.<br>
<br>
Tower Two is home to the Naked Edge, T2, and many other classic routes.
[Hide Photo] The right side of Redgarden Wall. The South Buttress has classic climbs like Anthill Direct. Tower Two is home to the Naked Edge, T2, and many other classic routes.
Tower Two and The Naked Edge
[Hide Photo] Tower Two and The Naked Edge
The new bolted rappel anchor at the top of the Upper Ramp. Installed 8/21/06.<br>
<br>
Traverse in from climber's left to avoid using the tree to downclimb.<br>
<br>
The rope pull is clean with little friction.  The rope only contacts the rock at the edge of the dropoff (where this photo was taken).<br>
<br>
The old tree anchor is just to the right.
[Hide Photo] The new bolted rappel anchor at the top of the Upper Ramp. Installed 8/21/06. Traverse in from climber's left to avoid using the tree to downclimb. The rope pull is clean with little friction…
Looking up T2.
[Hide Photo] Looking up T2.
Tower Two
[Hide Photo] Tower Two

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

ROC
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] WARNING!!!

The rappel tree on the top of the upper ramp (that puts you more or less at the base of Vertigo) is NOT stable. I was up there last week in high winds and the entire tree was lifting up out of the ground with each gust. I was sitting on the rocks near the tree and was lifted off the ground each time the tree would move. I left a rap anchor that consisted of three equalized stoppers, but I'm afraid the new anchor will be treated like booty gear. The tree may be fine, but under the circumstances I was not willing to trust my life to, "it's probably okay".
Apr 5, 2006
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] In the spirit of accuracy, I didn't actually rappel off the end of my rope. While trying to do the first all-female free ascent of The Edge with Sue Giller, the haul rope got stuck as she led up the third pitch. When Sue returned to the belay at the top of the 2nd pitch (so I could rappel down and free the haul rope from a crack) I quickly set up a rappel on our climbing rope (too quickly it turns out) and started down. When I pushed off to clear a small roof, that pressure flipped open the gates on the two carabiners I'd set up at the belay anchor. Apparently I hadn't reversed the gates and the rope popped out. I did think I was a goner but after falling about 20 feet I came within reach of the haul rope and managed to grab on, though at first I didn't think I would be able to hold it. Unbelievably my hands weren't burned that bad so I was able to unclip the useless rappel rope (after wrapping it around my leg for later) and clip the haul rope in to my "cross carabiner" brake on my waist tape -- while dangling in the air and hanging on with one hand (no harness back then), swing myself back into the rock to pull around the edge and rappel down to the top of the first pitch and clip in. By then my hands were freezing up and Sue helped me retreat. Though I am grateful for my literal strength, I was aware of saying as I looked at the ground zooming up below, prior to seeing the haul rope and grabbing it, "God, I'm not ready to die yet..." Coral May 26, 2010
James Beissel
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] High resolution panorama of Tower Two (989 megapixels). You'll need Adobe Flash to use the GigaPan viewer.

jamesbeissel.com/gigapan/re… Nov 19, 2010