Redgarden - Roof Routes Rock Climbing
|GPS:||39.931, -105.285 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
The Roof Routes probably contain the most sport-like climbing in all of Eldorado Canyon. The first 40 to 60 feet of these routes involve delicate face climbing on mostly bullet-proof, fine grained, Fountain Formation sandstone. The next section involves a roof bit anywhere from about 8 to 15 feet in length. Then above, there is wonderful face climbing characterized by exposure and spartan protection options. Interestingly, this lower section is probably one of the few places in the area that can be climbed during precipitation, if it is not blowing sideways.
Perhaps, one of the most famous stories for this section of the cliff is that on Layton Kor's Kloeberdanz. A fascinating section in Climb! describes Steve Wunsch's story of the freeing of Kloeberdanz, which is accompanied by images of hot Henry Barber dynamically flying for the lip of the roof and the story. Here, the teenage David Breashears, a.k.a. the Kloeberdanz kid, strolled up to the Briggs brothers working the route and statically walked the 1st pitch 2nd try! as described in Climb! and continued in the oral tradition.
Where do you start with classics? You could probably almost call each and every route here a classic. Some do. Every route here is probably someone's favorite. So, please, take no offense with any inclusion or exclusion.
Some of the classics here include: the verve-requiring Temporary Like Achilles, 5.10d s; Le Toit, 5.10d s; Le Verne, 5.10d s; the classic Guenese, 5.11a; the nervy Evangeline, 5.11b/c A1; the reachy Fire and Ice, 5.12a; 5.12a; Hands in the Clouds, 5.12a; the intimidating route, The Wisdom, 5.12a s; Downpressor Man, 5.12b; Scary Canary, 5.12b s; Wasabe, 5.12c; the impressive Psycho, 5.12c (possibly CO's 1st 5.12); Kloeberdeath, 5.13b; The Undertaker, 5.13d (by visiting Ben Moon), probably Eldo's hardest (perhaps with the exception of Matt Segal's Iron Monkey?), .
The lower end climber will find nothing to climb here. Probably, you need to be climbing solid 5.11 to find much joy here, except to watch.
Classic Climbing Routes at Redgarden - Roof Routes
Days w Precip