Elevation: 6,113 ft
GPS: 39.931, -105.285 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 40,606 total · 262/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This section of Redgarden Wall will cover routes starting below the obvious S-facing roof at the base of Redgarden Wall starting L of Jules Verne and beginning with Clever Lever and extending to Le Toit and Rosy Toit. For those wondering, routes starting here but continuing on will be included in this section.

The Roof Routes probably contain the most sport-like climbing in all of Eldorado Canyon. The first 40 to 60 feet of these routes involve delicate face climbing on mostly bullet-proof, fine grained, Fountain Formation sandstone. The next section involves a roof bit anywhere from about 8 to 15 feet in length. Then above, there is wonderful face climbing characterized by exposure and spartan protection options. Interestingly, this lower section is probably one of the few places in the area that can be climbed during precipitation, if it is not blowing sideways.

Perhaps, one of the most famous stories for this section of the cliff is that on Layton Kor's Kloeberdanz. A fascinating section in Climb! describes Steve Wunsch's story of the freeing of Kloeberdanz, which is accompanied by images of hot Henry Barber dynamically flying for the lip of the roof and the story. Here, the teenage David Breashears, a.k.a. the Kloeberdanz kid, strolled up to the Briggs brothers working the route and statically walked the 1st pitch 2nd try! as described in Climb! and continued in the oral tradition.

Where do you start with classics? You could probably almost call each and every route here a classic. Some do. Every route here is probably someone's favorite. So, please, take no offense with any inclusion or exclusion.

Some of the classics here include: the verve-requiring Temporary Like Achilles, 5.10d s; Le Toit, 5.10d s; Le Verne, 5.10d s; the classic Guenese, 5.11a; the nervy Evangeline, 5.11b/c A1; the reachy Fire and Ice, 5.12a; 5.12a; Hands in the Clouds, 5.12a; the intimidating route, The Wisdom, 5.12a s; Downpressor Man, 5.12b; Scary Canary, 5.12b s; Wasabe, 5.12c; the impressive Psycho, 5.12c (possibly CO's 1st 5.12); Kloeberdeath, 5.13b; The Undertaker, 5.13d (by visiting Ben Moon), probably Eldo's hardest (perhaps with the exception of Matt Segal's Iron Monkey?), .

The lower end climber will find nothing to climb here. Probably, you need to be climbing solid 5.11 to find much joy here, except to watch.

Getting There

To approach this section of the Redgarden Wall, you park at the E end of the park. Hike to the bridge, cross the bridge, hike W along the base of Whale's Tail. Continue across the concrete pad, follow the trail. At the fork, go R. Continue up the switchbacks and you will be close to the start of T2. Head uphill and L to the obvious section under the long roof and find you routes.

31 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Redgarden - Roof Routes

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 71
Temporary Like Achilles
Trad, Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 28
Rosy Toit
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Le Verne
Trad 5 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 81
Guenese
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 41
Le Toit
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 21
Psycho
Sport 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1
 65
Evangeline
Sport, Aid 3 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
 30
Kloeberdanz
Trad 3 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
 42
The Wisdom
Trad 4 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
 4
Le Toit Direct
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
 22
Hands In The Clouds
Trad, Sport, Aid
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 25
Fire and Ice
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 37
Downpressor Man
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
 16
Scary Canary
Trad 2 pitches
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 21
Wasabe
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Temporary Like Achilles
 71
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Rosy Toit
 28
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad
Le Verne
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 5 pitches
Guenese
 81
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Le Toit
 41
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Psycho
 21
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
Evangeline
 65
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1 Sport, Aid 3 pitches
Kloeberdanz
 30
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R Trad 3 pitches
The Wisdom
 42
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R Trad 4 pitches
Le Toit Direct
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R Trad
Hands In The Clouds
 22
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 Trad, Sport, Aid
Fire and Ice
 25
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Downpressor Man
 37
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Scary Canary
 16
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R Trad 2 pitches
Wasabe
 21
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
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