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Routes in Redgarden - Roof Routes

(Total) Psycho! T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1-
Blue Steel T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Canary Corner Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Clear the Deck T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Clever Lever S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Dangerous Acquaintances T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Downpressor Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Evangeline S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1
Fire and Ice T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Gem, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Guardian Saint T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Guen-Ice T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Guenese T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hands In The Clouds T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Huck Off T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kloeberdanz T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Kloeberdeath/Candallegro T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Last Rite T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Le Toit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Le Toit Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Le Verne T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lipsync T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mean Lean T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Psycho S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rosy Toit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Scary Canary T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Temporary Like Achilles T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trippin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Tubesock Tanline T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Wasabe S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wisdom, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R

Description

This section of Redgarden Wall will cover routes starting below the obvious S-facing roof at the base of Redgarden Wall starting L of Jules Verne and beginning with Clever Lever and extending to Le Toit and Rosy Toit. For those wondering, routes starting here but continuing on will be included in this section.

The Roof Routes probably contain the most sport-like climbing in all of Eldorado Canyon. The first 40 to 60 feet of these routes involve delicate face climbing on mostly bullet-proof, fine grained, Fountain Formation sandstone. The next section involves a roof bit anywhere from about 8 to 15 feet in length. Then above, there is wonderful face climbing characterized by exposure and spartan protection options. Interestingly, this lower section is probably one of the few places in the area that can be climbed during precipitation, if it is not blowing sideways.

Perhaps, one of the most famous stories for this section of the cliff is that on Layton Kor's Kloeberdanz. A fascinating section in Climb! describes Steve Wunsch's story of the freeing of Kloeberdanz, which is accompanied by images of hot Henry Barber dynamically flying for the lip of the roof and the story. Here, the teenage David Breashears, a.k.a. the Kloeberdanz kid, strolled up to the Briggs brothers working the route and statically walked the 1st pitch 2nd try! as described in Climb! and continued in the oral tradition.

Where do you start with classics? You could probably almost call each and every route here a classic. Some do. Every route here is probably someone's favorite. So, please, take no offense with any inclusion or exclusion.

Some of the classics here include: the verve-requiring Temporary Like Achilles, 5.10d s; Le Toit, 5.10d s; Le Verne, 5.10d s; the classic Guenese, 5.11a; the nervy Evangeline, 5.11b/c A1; the reachy Fire and Ice, 5.12a; 5.12a; Hands in the Clouds, 5.12a; the intimidating route, The Wisdom, 5.12a s; Downpressor Man, 5.12b; Scary Canary, 5.12b s; Wasabe, 5.12c; the impressive Psycho, 5.12c (possibly CO's 1st 5.12); Kloeberdeath, 5.13b; The Undertaker, 5.13d (by visiting Ben Moon), probably Eldo's hardest (perhaps with the exception of Matt Segal's Iron Monkey?), .

The lower end climber will find nothing to climb here. Probably, you need to be climbing solid 5.11 to find much joy here, except to watch.
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Getting There

To approach this section of the Redgarden Wall, you park at the E end of the park. Hike to the bridge, cross the bridge, hike W along the base of Whale's Tail. Continue across the concrete pad, follow the trail. At the fork, go R. Continue up the switchbacks and you will be close to the start of T2. Head uphill and L to the obvious section under the long roof and find you routes.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Redgarden - Roof Routes

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Temporary Like Achilles
Trad, Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Rosy Toit
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Le Verne
Trad 5 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Guenese
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Le Toit
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Psycho
Sport 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1
Evangeline
Sport, Aid 3 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Kloeberdanz
Trad 3 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
The Wisdom
Trad 4 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Fire and Ice
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Hands In The Clouds
Trad, Sport, Aid
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Huck Off
Trad, Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Downpressor Man
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wasabe
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Scary Canary
Trad 2 pitches
Temporary Like Achilles 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Rosy Toit 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad
Le Verne 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 5 pitches
Guenese 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Le Toit 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Psycho 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
Evangeline 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1 Sport, Aid 3 pitches
Kloeberdanz 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R Trad 3 pitches
The Wisdom 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R Trad 4 pitches
Fire and Ice 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Hands In The Clouds 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 Trad, Sport, Aid
Huck Off 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, Sport
Downpressor Man 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Wasabe 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Scary Canary 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R Trad 2 pitches
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