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Routes in Redgarden - Roof Routes

(Total) Psycho! T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1-
Blue Steel T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Canary Corner Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Clear the Deck T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Clever Lever S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Dangerous Acquaintances T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Downpressor Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Evangeline S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1
Fire and Ice T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Gem, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Guardian Saint T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Guen-Ice T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Guenese T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hands In The Clouds T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Huck Off T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kloeberdanz T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Kloeberdeath/Candallegro T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Last Rite T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Le Toit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Le Toit Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Le Verne T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lipsync T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mean Lean T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Psycho S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rosy Toit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Scary Canary T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Temporary Like Achilles T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trippin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Tubesock Tanline T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Wasabe S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wisdom, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: M. Gilbert, W. Nuss, 1970's
Page Views: 539 total, 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 7, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is an interesting one. Some great moves and good rock gated by some bad rock with poor pro right in the face of a bouldery crux. It is also a bit sandbagged in the book and is 10c or harder, even presuming I was having a bad day.

That said, it has a really nice section to it, but the yucky sections at bottom and on the ramp up top burn one of the otherwise 2 stars away.

Climb up the lower ramp, passing the the pin & rapid link at the base of "Le Toit" by maybe 15 meters. You will arrive below a thin, right-facing, acute dihedral, hanging over a roof about 5 meters up. Look carefully at the huge flake [guarding] it- I couldn't find a way to enter the dihedral without protecting behind it (only pro) and then really yarding on that thing! Place a belay up and West of the dihedral a bit, on some 1.5" pro under a hanging flake. That belay gear is bomber, and the belayer will be out of harms way, should climber or bad rock come down in a hurry.The leader will go up and right on solid hands (feet smear) to under the roof, then right under the roof and around to gain the dihedral. Smaller hands are good, but so are longer legs. I got a near "no hands" knee bar, but it bled me badly. Climb up and into the dihedral (crux, 10+?) and then proceed up, stemming, pinching and clinging. TCU's and stoppers pro it up. Make sure to protect your second by placing a few a the top of the crack, then wander right and sling a chicken head, then go back up and left (runout) to gain the ramp. Belay at the base of Rosy Crucifixion.

Protection

The route is runout and the first pro is a 1" cam or maybe a [fist-sized piece] behind a hollow-sounding and worse looking block. Further inspection from down and right will reveal that this is prbably OK, though, as it is socketed in tightly into the wall, zig-zag style. The route should protect best with a quiver of TCUs and nuts, plus a 2" cam for pulling into the dihedral (crux) and a 2.5" cam up higher. The top protects with a solid tied-off chickenhead.

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