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Routes in Redgarden - Roof Routes

(Total) Psycho! T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1-
Blue Steel T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Canary Corner Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Clear the Deck T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Clever Lever S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Dangerous Acquaintances T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Downpressor Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Evangeline S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1
Fire and Ice T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Gem, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Guardian Saint T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Guen-Ice T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Guenese T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hands In The Clouds T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Huck Off T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kloeberdanz T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Kloeberdeath/Candallegro T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Last Rite T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Le Toit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Le Toit Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Le Verne T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lipsync T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mean Lean T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Psycho S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rosy Toit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Scary Canary T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Temporary Like Achilles T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trippin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Tubesock Tanline T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Wasabe S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wisdom, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, Sport
FA: David Light
Page Views: 265 total, 1/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Apr 7, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a hybrid/link-up type route but it actually covers some pretty cool terrain and must be one of the most overhung routes in Eldo.

Start on Kloeberdanz, cranking through the crux 11a roof until you're perched on the slab over the lip. Move up and left onto the hanging arete and clip a bolt.

Power out the arete to the lip of roof and clip another bolt, then hand traverse left along the good rail at the lip of the roof band. Clip a final bolt and continue left (crux), eventually joining Guenese at the good lieback flakes over the roof.

Use long draws on this route to prevent rope drag. It's easiest to clean this one on top-rope.

Protection

Some small gear for the pillar at the start of Kloeberdanz and TCUs/stoppers for the corner on Guenese.

Photos

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Bart Paull
Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Bart Paull   Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Awesome route, well worth doing. You can get a #0.75 Camalot in the hueco-like feature just before Guenese to protect the final moves into the corner. Mar 16, 2011