Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Fire and Ice
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British PG13
Avg: 3.4 from 40
votes
Routes in Redgarden - Roof Routes
|
|
(Total) Psycho! T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1- |
|
|
Blue Steel T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
|
|
Canary Corner Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
|
|
Clear the Deck T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
|
|
Clever Lever S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
|
|
Dangerous Acquaintances T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
|
|
Downpressor Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Evangeline S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1 |
|
|
Fire and Ice T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
|
|
Gem, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Guardian Saint T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
|
|
Guen-Ice T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
|
|
Guenese T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Hands In The Clouds T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 |
|
|
Huck Off T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Kloeberdanz T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
|
|
Kloeberdeath/Candallegro T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Last Rite T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
|
|
Le Toit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Le Toit Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
|
|
Le Verne T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Lipsync T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Mean Lean T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
|
|
Private Idaho S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Psycho S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Rosy Toit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
|
|
Scary Canary T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
|
|
Temporary Like Achilles T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Trippin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Tubesock Tanline T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
|
|
Wasabe S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Wasabeline S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Wisdom, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: |
Trad, Sport, 3 pitches
Fixed Hardware
(6) |
| FA: | FFA: Pat Adams, 1981 |
| Page Views: | 5,685 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Alex Shainman on Oct 27, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Originally, a scary aid line in the '60s, Fire and Ice became an awesome technical face climbing test-piece for the '80s and still today. Three modern bolts protect three uniquely different "crux" sections. As with other "Roof Routes", F+I is rather height-dependent, and it's interesting to see how different people decipher the moves. I will tell you that you better fine tune your high stepping, mantling and crimping skills....
The route does continue through the roof (slightly down and right) and past the right facing corner at (11+R) by Alec Sharp, using a wild press/stand-up/undercling and jump move to the lip! Stuff a couple cams (#1.5-2 Friend) and layback past a bolt. Head up to the Guenese traverse and an anchor. Rap or continue.
Also, the first bolt was not originally there; for the aid ascent nor for early free attempts (and ground falls).
If you do P1 of Psycho and want an interesting TR: Climb F+I to the second bolt and traverse left diagonally upward to Psycho's anchors (led by Alec Sharp, Slow Dancing).
A good sized flake-hold just before the anchor on P1 broke off, but in my opinion, the climbing has not become more difficult.... That section is still just as tenuous as it always has been, from the right-foot rock over and up!
The route does continue through the roof (slightly down and right) and past the right facing corner at (11+R) by Alec Sharp, using a wild press/stand-up/undercling and jump move to the lip! Stuff a couple cams (#1.5-2 Friend) and layback past a bolt. Head up to the Guenese traverse and an anchor. Rap or continue.
Also, the first bolt was not originally there; for the aid ascent nor for early free attempts (and ground falls).
If you do P1 of Psycho and want an interesting TR: Climb F+I to the second bolt and traverse left diagonally upward to Psycho's anchors (led by Alec Sharp, Slow Dancing).
A good sized flake-hold just before the anchor on P1 broke off, but in my opinion, the climbing has not become more difficult.... That section is still just as tenuous as it always has been, from the right-foot rock over and up!
12 Comments