Avg: 3.4 from 34 votes
Trad, Sport, 3 pitches
|FA:||FFA: Pat Adams, 1981|
|Page Views:||4,962 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||Alex Shainman on Oct 27, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
The route does continue through the roof (slightly down and right) and past the right facing corner at (11+R) by Alec Sharp, using a wild press/stand-up/undercling and jump move to the lip! Stuff a couple cams (#1.5-2 Friend) and layback past a bolt. Head up to the Guenese traverse and an anchor. Rap or continue.
Also, the first bolt was not originally there; for the aid ascent nor for early free attempts (and ground falls).
If you do P1 of Psycho and want an interesting TR: Climb F+I to the second bolt and traverse left diagonally upward to Psycho's anchors (led by Alec Sharp, Slow Dancing).
A good sized flake-hold just before the anchor on P1 broke off, but in my opinion, the climbing has not become more difficult.... That section is still just as tenuous as it always has been, from the right-foot rock over and up!