All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Roof Routes

Guenese

Name: Guenese
Rating: 3.3

5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in Redgarden - Roof Routes

L › R R › L A › Z

	(Total) Psycho! T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1-
	Blue Steel T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
	Canary Corner Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Clear the Deck T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
	Clever Lever S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Dangerous Acquaintances T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
	Downpressor Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Evangeline S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1
	Fire and Ice T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
	Gem, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Guardian Saint T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Guen-Ice T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Guenese T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Hands In The Clouds T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
	Huck Off T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Kloeberdanz T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Kloeberdeath/Candallegro T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Last Rite T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Le Toit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Le Toit Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Le Verne T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Lipsync T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Mean Lean T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Psycho S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Rosy Toit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Scary Canary T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
	Temporary Like Achilles T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Trippin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Tubesock Tanline T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Wasabe S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Wasabeline S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Wisdom, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R

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Type:	Trad, 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (12)
FA:	Layton Kor, Ron Foreman, 1962. FFA: Steve Wunsch, Jim Erickson
Page Views:	9,121 total · 34/month
Shared By:	Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.

Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…

Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

This is a really fun route. The start is .10- and has a kind of bad fall potential. Climb the face up to the roof .10+ and crank over the roof on jugs immediately after .10. If you do this in one pitch, it feels about .11b (still easier than super spar!) because of the pump factor. There are bolts over the roof you can rap off of. Another option is to climb to the bolts below the roof (.10+) and set a toprope here. If you want, you can climb some 5.8 from this lower anchor to the anchor atop Downpressor Man (mid .12 for shorter people like me) and toprope this route also. This is probably the best protected of all the roof routes, and is one of the easier ones also.