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Routes in Redgarden - Roof Routes

(Total) Psycho! T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1-
Blue Steel T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Canary Corner Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Clear the Deck T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Clever Lever S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Dangerous Acquaintances T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Downpressor Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Evangeline S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1
Fire and Ice T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Gem, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Guardian Saint T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Guen-Ice T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Guenese T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hands In The Clouds T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Huck Off T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kloeberdanz T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Kloeberdeath/Candallegro T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Last Rite T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Le Toit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Le Toit Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Le Verne T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lipsync T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mean Lean T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Psycho S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rosy Toit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Scary Canary T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Temporary Like Achilles T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trippin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Tubesock Tanline T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Wasabe S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wisdom, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 70 ft Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: John Sherman, Alec Sharp
Page Views: 786 total, 4/month
Shared By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Mar 31, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Sorta a direct start to the Wisdom. Well, I asked John if he wanted it added to the database, and he grumbled "I don't care, nobody can lead it since Derek passed on."Them's fighting words. First attempt on sight: Six zero Rps placed, four ripped while lowering. Yanked the other two out from the ground. The knifeblade, placed free on the lead, held a twenty-footer (twenty years ago). Recommended. Should be on every competent Eldo visitor's list.

Protection

Upside-down knifeblade protection at the crux. John ripped out six 0 Rps.

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I don't know Crusher. I've never heard anyone else call Sherman "shy and bashful"!!

Maybe modest and humble, respectful and unpretentious, unassuming and tasteful? Maybe none of those? I don't know. I guess someone as unique and flamboyant as John Sherman defies description. But you could certainly call him one hell of a good climber!! Mar 21, 2008
Me lead it? Hell no. This is Verm's recommendation, not mine (as is the two stars). He's kinda shy and bashful. Besides, I'd certainly not call myself a competent Eldo climber. Jun 19, 2003
Eric Johnson led this last summer in his effort to conquer his list of (personally) undone hard and heinous obscurities. His onsight attempt resulted in a fall that was held by the upside down kb, equalized with a small RP. He fell about 25ft and the rope caught him as he decked, providing just enough stretch to keep bones from getting broken. He went back up and sent it next try. Jun 16, 2003
Recommended??? Did you lead it Steve??? Jun 15, 2003