Avg: 3.8 from 18 votes
Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches
|FA:||Roger & Bill Briggs|
|Page Views:||12,119 total · 54/month|
|Shared By:||Ron Olsen on May 29, 2003|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Pitch 1: Start just right of the "Lower Ramp" and make a hard move to gain a short, obtuse, right-facing corner. Layback up the corner making a hard moves (use to be a pin in place) to gain a rotten band. Traverse left with good gear #2 1/2 #3 Friends on somewhat loose holds to a right-facing flake. Place gear in the flake and move up and left past two old 1/4-inch bolts on slopey holds (scary) and up to the belay.
Pitch 2: Start as for "The Wisdom" but where that route goes right continue up and slightly left into a very intimidating, overhanging dihedral. Things are about to get ugly. Stem up the dihedral using small gear (2&3 RPs) to the crux move about eight feet below the roof. Do a wild stemming and palming (crux) move and reach a good bucket and rest below roof. After a good rest, crank out the roof on fairly good holds and power up the headwall past two bolt (5.10+). The climbing becomes easy (5.8) past the bolts and soon reach Le Toit at the easy traverse. Go left to the Le Toit belay (and rap the route) or right and follow Le Toit to the upper ramp.
Great route and lots of good hard climbing packed in its two pitches. "A Briggs classic".