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Routes in Redgarden - Roof Routes

(Total) Psycho! T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1-
Blue Steel T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Canary Corner Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Clear the Deck T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Clever Lever S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Dangerous Acquaintances T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Downpressor Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Evangeline S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1
Fire and Ice T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Gem, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Guardian Saint T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Guen-Ice T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Guenese T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hands In The Clouds T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Huck Off T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kloeberdanz T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Kloeberdeath/Candallegro T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Last Rite T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Le Toit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Le Toit Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Le Verne T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lipsync T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mean Lean T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Psycho S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rosy Toit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Scary Canary T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Temporary Like Achilles T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trippin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Tubesock Tanline T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Wasabe S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wisdom, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Roger & Bill Briggs
Page Views: 9,830 total, 56/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on May 29, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
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Description

Surprised that this classic route is not in the database. A Eldorado classic with very hard and very different pitches.

Pitch 1: Start just right of the "Lower Ramp" and make a hard move to gain a short, obtuse, right-facing corner. Layback up the corner making a hard moves (use to be a pin in place) to gain a rotten band. Traverse left with good gear #2 1/2 #3 Friends on somewhat loose holds to a right-facing flake. Place gear in the flake and move up and left past two old 1/4-inch bolts on slopey holds (scary) and up to the belay.

Pitch 2: Start as for "The Wisdom" but where that route goes right continue up and slightly left into a very intimidating, overhanging dihedral. Things are about to get ugly. Stem up the dihedral using small gear (2&3 RPs) to the crux move about eight feet below the roof. Do a wild stemming and palming (crux) move and reach a good bucket and rest below roof. After a good rest, crank out the roof on fairly good holds and power up the headwall past two bolt (5.10+). The climbing becomes easy (5.8) past the bolts and soon reach Le Toit at the easy traverse. Go left to the Le Toit belay (and rap the route) or right and follow Le Toit to the upper ramp.

Great route and lots of good hard climbing packed in its two pitches. "A Briggs classic".

Protection

Standard "Eldo rack" with extra "RP" for the crux corner.
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.12b/c R
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.12b/c R
Those 5.10+ sections are SO burly for 5.10+! Apr 8, 2016
WadeM
Golden, Co
 
WadeM   Golden, Co
 
Purple C3 protects P1 pretty well, and back up the pin with a yellow Alien.

Great route!!! WILD!!!!!! Mar 6, 2016
Dr. VARMENT
Boulder, Colorado
Dr. VARMENT   Boulder, Colorado
Tried this for the first time today. Pretty F'ing rad. Once the beta is sorted out, it's not super difficult. .12c sounds about right. Very much different than other routes of similar grade in Eldo.
Fixed gear seemed bomber. Nov 4, 2014
Brad G
1994 Honda Civic
Brad G   1994 Honda Civic
I'm 0 for 2 on this route. The first thirty feet is so mega! Apr 25, 2012
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Every single one of you guys are bad ass! Apr 9, 2009
Josh Janes    
 
Rob led P1 without clipping ANY of the fixed pro... just for kicks. You bad ass!!! Apr 9, 2009
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.12 R
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.12 R
Nice one, Steven! Wow, this route has seen some action lately. Jun 7, 2008
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.12b/c R
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.12b/c R
I second the "Freakin' Amazing" Rob! Probably the best 5.12 pitch I've done in Eldo.

If you can climb 5.12 in Eldo, then get on this climb! Jun 7, 2008
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
Steve, thank for showing me the route. I'm smitten with it now. Jun 4, 2008
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.12b/c R
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.12b/c R
Nice send Rob! Jun 2, 2008
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.12 R
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.12 R
Freakin' amazing route! The 2nd pitch went down this morning on my 3rd attempt. Hank, I agree with you about the 10+ sections. It's one of those climbs where the cruxes come low, but you can't celebrate yet because you may get smacked in the face near the end.

The second pitch is one of the most unique climbs in Eldo. Last week after getting thru the crux corner I was shut down when I pulled around the corner slapping the tiny edges with pumped forearms(ahhhh). If you climb 12- in Eldo, get on this one. Don't let the grade scare you away. May 30, 2008
reboot
.
 
reboot   .
 
Well, that bolt at end of P1 is still hard to clip for me. I'm 5'6" and actually need to do 2-3 extra moves just to start P1. Although being not very tall and quite flexible made P2 feel easier than the grade (so 12a for P1 and 12a/b for P2?). Two very cool (and different) pitches of the same route! May 20, 2008
With regards to the heinous "10+" top of pitch one...It used to be even MORE heinous before the bolts were "replaced". Either holds broke/appeared or the bolt position got lowered down to an easier clipping stance. I remember it being very heinous just to clip the bolt! Maybe my memory is just bad... Sep 10, 2007
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
 
I got it 2nd try overall, and Wayne got it on his 3rd try overall. I am officially calling the (10+) roof sequence on the 2nd pitch SOLID! 5.11!!!!!! Jeeeez Loouweez, 10+ my ass! Unbelievably good route. Perfect in every way, if you're into this kind of thing. May 25, 2007
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
 
For once, I am now upgrading whole sections of a route, both pitches. The 11d on the 1st pitch is not that bad, but the 10+ at the top is heinous. On the second pitch, the 12b/c section didn't seem that bad but I fell on the (10+ c'mon!!!!) roof with bolts in your face. So I took a fall on each pitch, blowing what was to have been glorious flashes. Nevertheless, Roger and Bill Briggs are genius for establishing this route and I can't recommend it enough. Just watch out for the 10+ sections.......Godammit!

P.S.- Who took the bail biner off the second pitch and relocated it to the first pitch? You sneaky shit! You know who you are and you think you are soooooooo sneaky. May 19, 2007
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
 
I'm calling bullcrap on Rossiter's guidebook saying the end of pitch one is 10c. Almost a number grade harder in my opinion, but you got a bolt at your waist so that's nice. I didn't think the initial crux was as hard as being kinda flamed and slappin the slopes at the top. Really exciting, it's Temporary like Achilles' big mean brother. Thunder and lightning scares hampered efforts on the second pitch. Seems cool so far.

P.S.-no slam on Rossiter personally, I just got hammered at the top of this pitch. Yeesh! May 13, 2007