Temporary Like Achilles

Escalar - The original start, rated 5.10+, is about 8ft left of the start that you described. Most people now climb the much easier start on the right, 5.10b. The original start is actually quite hard--I think its 5.11a, and reachy. It's much better to toprope this because a fall might put you on the ground if your belayer doesn't pull in rope. Once you reach the rotten band, the remainder of the pitch is about .10a and lots of fun. Has anyone done a second ascent of the roof? "The Undertaker 5.13+". By the way the route above the roof, Hands in the Clouds, 5.12a, is very exciting and excellent. Jan 1, 2001

Escalar- Its interesting what you said about the origional start being to the left. Do you mean starting up the flake and going left up to the really thin crimps? Ive never done that and it always looked significantly harder than .10+, I just had a friend who did it the other day onsight on lead _im pretty sure it was this line and not farther left_, and said that he thought it was about .11c, im curious because the rossiter eldo guide can be a bit nebulous at times. Jan 1, 2001

Esc. - Yes, that's probably it. After thinking about it, this start is directly up the flake and onto the face after the flake arches to the left. It is only about 4 ft left of where the .10b start goes right. Years ago there was an upside down pin in the upper part of the arch, but it's gone. That is the way most people used to climb it. You end up smearing onto some slopers above the flake and reaching for an A-shaped hold, then paddling up to the rotten band. It is probably .11a if you are tall, and harder if you're not. It's a pretty exciting lead, especially on-sight. Jan 1, 2001

Do not fall on the left-angling terrain above the flake. You and the ground might become awfully familiar with each other. This deserves an R or S for sure. Mar 7, 2002

Temporary Like Achilles is a Dylan song from Blonde on Blonde, 1966. One verse begins, "Kneeling 'neath your ceiling yes I guess I'll be here for a while." I thought this climb might have been named after the song because of the semi-crawling traverse low down. But, thinking about it, the FA on aid did not do the traverse. Maybe it was named this because of the hanging belay below the roof, or perhaps it's just coincidental that a line in the song would seem relevant to climbing. Feb 15, 2003

I followed this a few days ago (Josh Janes led), so take this with a grain of salt. Leo says above that the traverse left is bad news. Josh got a decent green 3/4 Camalot in a hole in the back of the red band before the start of the traverse. Then a red #1 Camalot straight up a few feet left. He then re-placed the red Camalot in a straight down crack. So the protection on the traverse is OK. The initial moves up to the red band are a possible ground fall as you stand up (good cam to start and possible wire at the top of the flake). And if you're short, it could be really scary getting established on the red band. Feb 15, 2003

History: From High Over Boulder, 1970:FA 1967 by Pat Ament and Larry Dalke.But... it goes on to say "first lead of this route was first done in 1967 by Layton Kor and Cub Schaefer." So did Ament and Dalke top rope it? Strange."About seven paces uphill of Evangeline is the start of this phenomenal adventure." Feb 15, 2003

I put 3 pieces in to protect the traverse, but didn't trust them at all. I was wishing for a 3.5 Friend, which looked liked it would have fit perfectly just before you turn the roof and head for the bolt. The start is definitely an ankle-buster, but pretty dang soft for .10c! Mar 9, 2004

Does anyone know the name of the route (toprope or necky lead) that starts as Temporary LIke Achilles but goes over the small roof at the first break where Temporary traverses left. It rejoins Temporary at it's second bolt. Thanks! Mar 18, 2005

I believe that is the original aid line of ascent for Temporary. It goes free (on toprope for me) at around 11a. Mar 18, 2005

Watch out for the bee's nest in the flake. They usually don't get aggressive unless provoked, but the flake is loaded with them. Aug 5, 2005

If you come off at the crux, you will most likely end up with more than a twisted ankle. Feb 12, 2006

Scary, no pro committing start off of that pointy flake. You can try to get some nuts in the top, but they probably wouldn't hold. A friend of mine saw Reardon on this climb (on rope) and he was sketched out about the start! Dec 24, 2008

Even the best belayer would have a tough time keep you off the ground, if you blow the crux move down low. A #4 C4 is handy as your first piece after the crux, while a couple blue aliens will sew up the pumpy section after the bolts. A great winter morning climb.... Dec 29, 2008

Curious if anyone has some confirmed knowledge of other free ascents of the roof? Has anyone succeeded in freeing it after Ben Moon's FFA back in early '90s. It looks like one of the hardest routes in Eldo to me. Dec 12, 2010

Wholly smokes, Batman! Why didn't anyone mention that the pin on the upper part of the first pitch is gone? Just about shat myself today when I got up there with a qd & no gear. Pucker factor of 9.3 after cranking the run-out 5.9 section & realizing that I had to continue running it out to the anchor. Apr 11, 2012

That last pin was poor and I've always placed a purple Camalot right next to it and not bothered to clip the pin. Apr 13, 2012

Generally protects well once you are past the twenty foot groundfall crux runout. Don't fall at the crux. The pin after the second bolt is still gone. There are plenty of placements between the last bolt and the anchor, and it's a clean fall. May 24, 2016