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Temporary Like Achilles
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.9 from 80
votes
Routes in Redgarden - Roof Routes
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(Total) Psycho! T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1- |
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Blue Steel T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Canary Corner Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Clear the Deck T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Clever Lever S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Dangerous Acquaintances T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Downpressor Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Evangeline S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1 |
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Fire and Ice T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Gem, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Guardian Saint T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Guen-Ice T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Guenese T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hands In The Clouds T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 |
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Huck Off T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Kloeberdanz T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Kloeberdeath/Candallegro T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Last Rite T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Le Toit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Le Toit Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Le Verne T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lipsync T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mean Lean T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Psycho S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rosy Toit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Scary Canary T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Temporary Like Achilles T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trippin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Tubesock Tanline T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Wasabe S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Wasabeline S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Wisdom, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: |
Trad, Sport
Fixed Hardware
(10) |
| FA: | [FA 1967 Pat Ament &Larry Dalke, 1967 led Layton Kor & Cub Schaefer, ?FFA] John Bragg, Steve Wunsch |
| Page Views: | 5,685 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is the route directly to the left of Evangeline. It is identified by a large attached flake with a bunch of chalk. Ascend this flake (crux) via some face moves to a left-angling slot affair. Climb up the slot a little ways, fiddle in some pro, then pull over a minor roof on jugs to a bolt. From here, take a direct line up to a two bolt anchor via a 5.9 seam with supplemental edges. There is another bolt (and formerly a pin) along this section. A historic classic, and a good quick route also.
Eds. There is a roof pitch, freed by Ben Moon at 13d. It continues above the roof.
Eds. There is a roof pitch, freed by Ben Moon at 13d. It continues above the roof.
Protection
Definitely dangerous, although not too hard for its original rating (.10c). You pull the crux 15 feet up w/ no pro, you're not going to die, but could easily twist your ankle. Slightly runout up higher, bring some TCUs for the pin scars.
Eds. the pin on the upper part of the first pitch is gone.
Per Carl Schaefer: you can protect with 0.4-#2 Camalots plus optional TCUs or small offset cams for the pin scars on the (otherwise) slightly runout upper face and quickdraws for the two bolts. There are fixed carabiners at the anchor.
Eds. the pin on the upper part of the first pitch is gone.
Per Carl Schaefer: you can protect with 0.4-#2 Camalots plus optional TCUs or small offset cams for the pin scars on the (otherwise) slightly runout upper face and quickdraws for the two bolts. There are fixed carabiners at the anchor.
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