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Routes in Redgarden - Roof Routes
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(Total) Psycho! T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1- |
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Blue Steel T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Canary Corner Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Clear the Deck T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Clever Lever S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Dangerous Acquaintances T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Downpressor Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Evangeline S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1 |
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Fire and Ice T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Gem, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Guardian Saint T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Guen-Ice T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Guenese T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hands In The Clouds T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 |
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Huck Off T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Kloeberdanz T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Kloeberdeath/Candallegro T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Last Rite T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Le Toit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Le Toit Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Le Verne T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lipsync T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mean Lean T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Psycho S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rosy Toit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Scary Canary T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Temporary Like Achilles T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trippin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Tubesock Tanline T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Wasabe S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Wasabeline S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Wisdom, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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| Type: |
Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
Fixed Hardware
(11) |
| FA: | [FA Kor & Ament 5.8 A4 P1 FFA: E. Webster. P2 FFA: A. Higbee. P3 FFA: Bachar FFA entire: John Bachar] |
| Page Views: | 14,313 total · 61/month |
| Shared By: | Pinklebear on Oct 12, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This airy, overhanging excursion is a must-do for those comfortable at the grade. While never fatal, this route is quite serious in a couple of places, including the 11d crux boulder problem, which you encounter off an exposed hanging belay on the third pitch. Alternately delicate, thuggy and heady, The Wisdom is arguably the best continuously free route on the Roof Wall.
P1: (10d s) Begin on the ramp about fifty feet up and left of Temporary Like Achilles and Dangerous Acquaintances. The route face climbs right from a small stance at the top of the double cave-slots, moving through a scoop past greasy laybacks and a so-so fixed pin to easier face moves above. Protect when you can.
P2: (11b) A completely unique experience! From the alcove at the top of the first pitch jug haul up to a bolt at the base of the Scary Canary dihedral. Clip then bolt then, counter to your instincts, downclimb right along the lip of the roof on a good rail (pumpy) until you can roll over onto the smooth, tan face above the lip. Belay under the small roof at double Metolius anchor bolts. This pitch is commonly combined with pitch 1.
P3: (11d/12a s) The crux. Undercling right off the hanging belay to an thin-walled but solid hole/flake. Load it up with 2"+ gear, then crank straight up on bouldery, commiting moves. The handholds are good but the footholds suck through here; a fall from the top of this sequence will send you for a good 30-footer. Have your belayer be mindful not to drop you beneath the big roof another 10 feet down, as sharp rails at the lip might cut your rope! Easier, better protected climbing up a R-facing corner leads you to a small belay stance.
P4: (5.9) Move up and right from the belay to the varnished plaque of rock, clipping a lone bolt and executing a series of hideously desperate slab moves (this is Psycho Slab) to reach the safety of the Upper Ramp.
P1: (10d s) Begin on the ramp about fifty feet up and left of Temporary Like Achilles and Dangerous Acquaintances. The route face climbs right from a small stance at the top of the double cave-slots, moving through a scoop past greasy laybacks and a so-so fixed pin to easier face moves above. Protect when you can.
P2: (11b) A completely unique experience! From the alcove at the top of the first pitch jug haul up to a bolt at the base of the Scary Canary dihedral. Clip then bolt then, counter to your instincts, downclimb right along the lip of the roof on a good rail (pumpy) until you can roll over onto the smooth, tan face above the lip. Belay under the small roof at double Metolius anchor bolts. This pitch is commonly combined with pitch 1.
P3: (11d/12a s) The crux. Undercling right off the hanging belay to an thin-walled but solid hole/flake. Load it up with 2"+ gear, then crank straight up on bouldery, commiting moves. The handholds are good but the footholds suck through here; a fall from the top of this sequence will send you for a good 30-footer. Have your belayer be mindful not to drop you beneath the big roof another 10 feet down, as sharp rails at the lip might cut your rope! Easier, better protected climbing up a R-facing corner leads you to a small belay stance.
P4: (5.9) Move up and right from the belay to the varnished plaque of rock, clipping a lone bolt and executing a series of hideously desperate slab moves (this is Psycho Slab) to reach the safety of the Upper Ramp.
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