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Routes in Redgarden - Roof Routes

(Total) Psycho! T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1-
Blue Steel T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Canary Corner Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Clear the Deck T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Clever Lever S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Dangerous Acquaintances T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Downpressor Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Evangeline S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1
Fire and Ice T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Gem, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Guardian Saint T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Guen-Ice T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Guenese T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hands In The Clouds T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Huck Off T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kloeberdanz T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Kloeberdeath/Candallegro T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Last Rite T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Le Toit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Le Toit Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Le Verne T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lipsync T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mean Lean T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Psycho S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rosy Toit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Scary Canary T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Temporary Like Achilles T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trippin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Tubesock Tanline T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Wasabe S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wisdom, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson
Page Views: 2,808 total, 16/month
Shared By: Jim Redo on Mar 29, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Climb Guenese to the first bolt passing a pin en route. Follow two more bolts straight up to the anchor. A pin can be clipped after the last bolt for the run to the anchor. This is crimpy and powerful, maybe a little spanny for the vertically challenged. It is best not done on a hot day in the sun.

Protection

Two pins and three bolts.

Photos

michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.12-
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.12-
Fun route with perfect rock. The feet can be a bit tricky and slick. I agree with the above about the route being a bit easier if you are 6' or more. However, I must disagree with the aforementioned tactics. Please do not lower directly through the glue-in. Be considerate of climbers who will use it for decades to come; rap or leave a biner. Feb 12, 2017
ANGUS WIESSNER
Denver Colorad
  5.12a PG13
ANGUS WIESSNER   Denver Colorad
  5.12a PG13
The rock on this climb is beautiful, chocolate looking swirls. For shorter people, I can totally see 12b, but for us tall guys, I'd have to say 12a, a spicy one especially on the sharp end. Three bolts, three pins, and a two bolt anchor with steel rings. The stainless steel glue in bolt at the crux is confidence inspiring and also allows you to thread and lower if you can't get past the crux. Nov 18, 2014
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12b
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12b
Can't believe that there is not one photo of this classic posted here. Time to change that. Went out there, today. Still love this route. Super high quality, classic, Eldo trickery. Aug 23, 2014
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
 
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
 
Almost clocked my belayer with a cherry pie slice-sized piece of rock after the crux. Just cuz it's been there awhile doesn't mean some dumbass like myself can't rip it off! Mar 31, 2014
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Ken, I recall watching Mark do this without all the intermediates, and that is why I commented as above. Apr 14, 2013
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12b
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12b
One-trick pony with fun climbing to the crux. I like the traverse climbing to the anchors. Apr 13, 2013
reboot
.
 
reboot   .
 
Those who complain about reach should know how tall the OP is (probably shorter than you!). Regardless, it doesn't climb that well if you are short (ends being more about how strong the fingers are than any semblance of balance & technique). Aug 28, 2012
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.12b
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.12b
That crux move is killing me. Avoid in the summer afternoon. I didn't and found myself trying to stick the crux reach when the rock was all greasy. If only I was a little tiny bit taller, I'd be able to nail it on redpoint. Sep 5, 2011
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
 
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
 
I think this route is pretty reachy for shorties like me. I swear, just two more inches and I would be able to nail the crux move. Apr 27, 2011
Eric Goukas showed me this line shortly before he died. I took Rolofson up there and we decided to bolt it. I think Rolofson didn't have enough money for the bolts so I bought some of them. Back then I was content to top rope it and call it a climb...The bolt thing was not really big. May 18, 2005
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Seemed especially reachy for a middle-aged, average-strength, +2 ape, 5'10" climber. Apr 3, 2003
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.12b
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.12b
Drop a star from three to two for the brevity of the killer climbing and the indirect start and finish. Apr 2, 2003
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.12b
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.12b
Hmmm.. How did this little classic escape posting here for so long? Thin, super-crisp edges separated by long pulls on a vertical wall add up to a fine sequence. The line looses a litle in continuity from the initial traverse leading into the perfect stone in the mid section and from the slightly odd finish that traverses back left. For my taste, it has always seemed reasonable to place a separate anchor at the bona fide top of Downpressor and skip the final traverse. DM is a nifty line for working the feet and the crimp strength. Apr 2, 2003