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Routes in Redgarden - Roof Routes

(Total) Psycho! T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1-
Blue Steel T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Canary Corner Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Clear the Deck T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Clever Lever S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Dangerous Acquaintances T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Downpressor Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Evangeline S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1
Fire and Ice T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Gem, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Guardian Saint T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Guen-Ice T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Guenese T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hands In The Clouds T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Huck Off T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kloeberdanz T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Kloeberdeath/Candallegro T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Last Rite T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Le Toit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Le Toit Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Le Verne T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lipsync T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mean Lean T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Psycho S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rosy Toit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Scary Canary T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Temporary Like Achilles T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trippin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Tubesock Tanline T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Wasabe S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wisdom, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Type: Sport
FA: D. Michael, P. Piana, M. Sonnenfeld, 1988
Page Views: 2,029 total, 11/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Mar 29, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Wasabe is the route in between Psycho and Evangeline. It starts on Psycho, up to its first bolt and then trends left and up past five more bolts to the base of the big roof. This first section is typical roof-route face climbing but better protected than the others (.11a/b). The intimidating roof is next, protected by two bolts and is actually much more reasonable than it first appears. Without giving away too much beta, it involves a heel hook, a dyno, some body torquing, and some intricate footwork. One key is to climb past the second bolt in the roof and reach back to clip it once you're established at the lip.

There's a bit of a span between the first bolt in the roof and the one under it, so one might want to stuff a medium cam at the base of the roof to ease any fears. (Plus, it's a ring bolt which I've never really liked in overhangs). Once past the lip an easy move takes you to a big jug and the anchor. Unless someone is following, most people just clip in here for a rest and then climb back and jump off, cleaning the draws in the roof and then lowering off the last bolt on the face. Wasabe is the best protected of the roof-routes with lots of interesting moves up the face and out a pretty big overhang.

Protection

8 bolts (6 are ring bolts) to a bolted anchor. Possible medium cam.
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
^^^ Thanks for replacing those "old" bolts. They had been there long enough and always seemed weird. Thanks again. Oct 12, 2017
dameeser
denver
dameeser   denver
The 4 ring bolts on the face were replaced with glue-ins. Oct 12, 2017
Bob Rotert
5.12
Bob Rotert  
5.12
It does still go as of this date. I watched a guy do it just the other day. I don't remember there ever being much for the feet to work with on this one to begin with. True that height, could be an issue on this one, Tony. Mar 21, 2008
Tony Yao
Boulder, CO
Tony Yao   Boulder, CO
I don't know what was on the roof before, but that thing is a bunch of choss. I broke a bunch of foot holds when I was on it, and I don't think it goes anymore if you are a sub sixer. Sep 26, 2006
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Mark Rolofson has been and is a great (and underappre-ciated) resource to the climbing community. He has much experience removing old bolts and placing new & improved bolts at Eldorado, even on the Roof routes. I would suggest seeking his expertise in a project to upgrade the bolts here & in Eldo. Apr 4, 2002
I certainly did not want to recommend that people lower off of a single bolt--even if it's been done many times. Climbing left to the anchors on Evangeline is the smartest and safest way to get off this route, unless you actually lower from the anchor above the roof (then you have to figure out how to follow it--exciting!). A fixed anchor at the base of the roof would solve the problem if the Park would approve. I'm not sure how strong the old ring bolts are. It would be nice to replace these as well (on this route and others). Removing them might be quite a task, and the resulting hole will be too big in diameter (~9/16") to fill with the bolts presently being used. They are driven in about 1.25" and use a cone to expand them at the back, making for questionable pull-out strength. Plus, they can be hard to clip when the ring falls flat against the surface of the rock. If someone was up to the project it would be a nice service to everyone. Apr 3, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
You can angle up the face to the next set of anchors and then descend. Or, you can submit a proposal to the FHRC to add a bolt for an intermediate anchor. Apr 1, 2002
It would be nice if these ring bolts were replaced with modern bolts.

The majority of people who get on this seem to just do the face. You can lower off a single bolt if you don't mind dying, or reach down from the last bolt on the face and thread the rope through the top two bolts. A pain. It would be nice if there were 2 bolts at the base of the roof to lower off of. Apr 1, 2002