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Routes in Redgarden - Roof Routes

(Total) Psycho! T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1-
Blue Steel T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Canary Corner Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Clear the Deck T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Clever Lever S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Dangerous Acquaintances T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Downpressor Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Evangeline S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1
Fire and Ice T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Gem, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Guardian Saint T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Guen-Ice T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Guenese T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hands In The Clouds T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Huck Off T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kloeberdanz T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Kloeberdeath/Candallegro T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Last Rite T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Le Toit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Le Toit Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Le Verne T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lipsync T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mean Lean T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Psycho S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rosy Toit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Scary Canary T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Temporary Like Achilles T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trippin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Tubesock Tanline T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Wasabe S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wisdom, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Type: Sport, 30 ft Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: Mike Tobias/Brian Robertson, circa 1970, FFA: Greg Lowe, 1976.
Page Views: 1,891 total, 17/month
Shared By: bhoran on Jan 3, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is located left of T2's? first roof pitch, right of Kloberdanz and Private Idaho roofs. Climb the right-angling sequence of underclings, heel hooks, and levers to gain the lip. It is bolt protected.

Location

This is located left of T2 Kloberdanz first roof pitch, right of Kloberdanz and Private Idaho roofs.

Protection

Bolts to anchors.

Photos

kevin donald  
 
I agree with Bart Paull's comment that the "Clever Lever" is well worth doing and more like a roped boulder problem than an pitch of climbing. We did not use a clip stick at the time, but it sounds like a good idea, because a fall prior to clipping could cause some damage. I did the second free ascent of this little gem after ample beta from Greg Lowe (he had climbed it the day before while belayed by Bob Dodds). On my ascent, I was belayed by David Breashears, and I came very close to hitting he ground on each of 3 falls I took from the crux at the lip. Consequently, on my next attempt, David kept a close rope on me, and I have always wondered if the close belay aided my success. I compared notes with John Bachar about this the day after his successful attempt (after a few falls), and the next day when he attempted to solo the route, he flew-off at the lip, and we have all heard the rest of that story. I think it was raining when both Greg and I did the route which means it's a good route to work on when the rest of Eldorado is dripping wet.

Cheers! Jul 18, 2014
Bart Paull
Boulder, CO
  5.13a
Bart Paull   Boulder, CO
  5.13a
I'd say the route is something like a roped V7-V8, making it pretty stout for the given 12a/b.... Very worth doing, stick clip recommended! Apr 12, 2013
Anyone have more info on this route or any updated pics? Mar 11, 2013
Bob Rotert
  5.12-
Bob Rotert  
  5.12-
I always liked this route. It's short but sweeet!! Amazing send by Greg Lowe. One of those stand out routes in difficulty for the time it was done. Jun 9, 2011