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Routes in Redgarden - Roof Routes

(Total) Psycho! T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1-
Blue Steel T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Canary Corner Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Clear the Deck T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Clever Lever S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Dangerous Acquaintances T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Downpressor Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Evangeline S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1
Fire and Ice T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Gem, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Guardian Saint T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Guen-Ice T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Guenese T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hands In The Clouds T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Huck Off T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kloeberdanz T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Kloeberdeath/Candallegro T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Last Rite T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Le Toit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Le Toit Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Le Verne T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lipsync T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mean Lean T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Psycho S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rosy Toit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Scary Canary T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Temporary Like Achilles T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trippin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Tubesock Tanline T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Wasabe S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wisdom, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Type: Sport, Aid, 3 pitches Fixed Hardware (21)
FA: [?Steve Wunsch per High Over Boulder, P. Ament & M. VanLoon 1967 TR led P Ament & R Briggs, 1967]
Page Views: 3,968 total, 19/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Mar 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is one of the more popular and better protected roof routes.

This climb starts to the [right] of Temporary Like Achilles; uphill 20 yards from Guenese. It can be identified by a heavily chalked shelf midway up and a seemingly juggy roof at the beginning. This is a great pitch, .10b over the roof, and pumpy reachy 5.11 climbing up higher on good holds. Once on top of the shelf, the crux breaks left on some sloping holds then angles back right to easier climbing that moves up and left to a two bolt belay. The upper roof can be aided to gain access to two more apparently classic 5.10 pitches, I have not done these however.

The pitch above the roof is excellent, 5.10b/c. The roof is easily aidable and ends up at a big anchor. From there, the climb goes up and right, and then straight up the face to a tricky groove. It finishes up an easy slab to the belay below the Psycho Slab. This pitch is exposed and feels much more commiting than it actually is. It is mostly fixed with old pins and other old gear, and can be protected with small wires and small cams. The Psycho Slab, 5.9, leads to the Upper Ramp.

The upper pitches have some antique gear (pins & bashies) that you should treat with suspect.

Protection

There are a few bolts and less than ideal pins protecting this climb. The start is a tad on the hairy side.
Was reading Ken Trout's comment (pic) re the 1st pitch bolt replacements...Yeah, totally bogus bolts, for sure!!! I remember when I first lead this. The topo descriptions in Boulder Climbs South said it all...The last, crux bolt must of been a Star-Drive cause I remember the head of the nail had snapped off and the shaft backed out or something??? And...Someone had bent both sides of the shaft outwards to "hold down" the hanger!! Sketcccchy!! Before the bolts were replaced, my friend Dave and I used to dangerously sandbag our outa-town friends onto this "old sport climb"...How lame is that? Sep 10, 2007
Chris  
The pins and bashies remain on the third pitch, as well they should for posterity. The four _ inchers were replaced by 3/8 inch stainless steel providers. This is a fantastic and overlooked pitch, especially with the face-lift! Don't let the AO roof dissuade you. No sense in stopping at the roof when aiming for the upper pitch. Tarzan your way through the roof and belay above the lip to finish pitch 1. Sep 30, 2003
Just about a week ago there was a rebolting day in Eldo. There was a guy up on the upper pitch of this route replacing many of the old nasty pins that used to be up there. I figured that I would give everyone a heads up about the new gear and also a huge thanks to the guys that were out there taking a day off of climbing to take care of Eldo. Props to you, guys! Sep 20, 2003
XOG
XOG  
I followed the upper 10 b/c in the early 90s and thought it was considerably harder than the 11 b/c first pitch. I remember hard moves off the belay, and an upper crux past fixed bashies in a smooth dihedral / groove sort of thing, which more or less sounds like what some other people are saying. Mar 3, 2003
The pitch above the roof is excellent, 5.10b/c. The roof is easily aidable and ends up at a big anchor. From there, the climb goes up and right, and then straight up the face to a tricky groove. It finishes up an easy slab to the belay below the Psycho Slab. This pitch is exposed and feels much more commiting than it actually is. It is mostly fixed with old pins and other old gear, and can be protected with small wires and small cams. The Psycho Slab, 5.9, leads to the Upper Ramp. Jan 1, 2001
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
 
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
 
Attempted to do these upper pitches today. I found the climbing quite nebulous, perhaps I didn't stare at the guidebook long enough, and eventually got off route and stumbled into Psycho in one long wandering yet exposed and fun lead. There is a bit of 5.10 right off the belay that is, for lack of a better word, spicy. You have to sling a hangerless quarter incher four feet out from the belay. The rest of the pitch (after where I broke over to psycho) seemed to be protected with a full museum of old, aid climbing gear, my partner tells me I missed spotting a bolt and pin on this section, all I saw was unispiring bashies. Anyway, all I mean to say is that this pitch deserves an s rating. The Psycho slab was a really cool exit. Jan 1, 2001
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
 
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
 
A shoulder length sling is helpful between the first and second bolts, you can sling a protrusion and eliminate any runout. Jan 1, 2001