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Routes in Redgarden - Roof Routes

(Total) Psycho! T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1-
Blue Steel T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Canary Corner Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Clear the Deck T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Clever Lever S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Dangerous Acquaintances T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Downpressor Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Evangeline S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1
Fire and Ice T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Gem, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Guardian Saint T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Guen-Ice T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Guenese T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hands In The Clouds T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Huck Off T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kloeberdanz T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Kloeberdeath/Candallegro T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Last Rite T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Le Toit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Le Toit Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Le Verne T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lipsync T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mean Lean T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Psycho S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rosy Toit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Scary Canary T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Temporary Like Achilles T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trippin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Tubesock Tanline T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Wasabe S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wisdom, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Suggested by B. Miller and S. Levin
Page Views: 3,936 total, 20/month
Shared By: slevin on Nov 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Le Verne tackles the complete Redgarden Wall in five long pitches of climbing, four of which are excellent 5.10. This link-up starts on Le Toit, connects with Rosy Crucifixion to gain the Upper Ramp, then follows Love Minus Zero to T2 to the finish of Jules Verne. If you are looking for a challenging and varied 5.10, and are tired of repeating Super Slab, consider this little classic.

P1 (5.10d with 5.9s): Climb Le Toit through the large roof, combining pitches 1 and 2, and belay at 2 bolts. Long slings lower down and on the anchors atop the first pitch reduce rope drag on the roof. P2 (5.10b with 5.8s): Climb directly up above the belay, then traverse straight left at some fixed pins, and up and left to reach the top of pitch 2 on Rosy Crucifixion. Continue through the third pitch and run it out to the large tree with rap slings and belay. Again, good use of long slings down low reduces rope drag up high. Traverse over to the base of the Upper Redgarten Wall, then walk down to Love Minus Zero, immediately left of the start of Upper T2. P3 (5.10b s): Follow the left-diagonal crack (5.9+) up a beautiful, lichenous wall to a nice ledge on your left. Now climb the shallow left-facing corner above to a stance at the top of the difficulties. Load up on small to mid-size wires for this lead, and include some small RPs for the 5.10 corner. P4 (5.7): Follow T2 up the large right-facing corner, then just before that climb traverses left up the rotten band climb straight right 25 feet and belay on a ledge. It is possible to peek around the corner at the fourth pitch of the Naked Edge from this belay. P5 (5.10d): Climb the final Jules Verne bulge, a bit of rotten rock at a flake to a finger crack up and left, then follow a fun and sustained face (5.9) to the top. Descend the East Slabs.

Protection

Small RPs to 3.5 inch cam. Load up on small - medium wires and TCUs.

Photos

[Brilliant] link up! I'd have to call the 1st pitch .11a and would consider an S rating for the roof on the last pitch. I did the first pitch of Le Void off the Upper Ramp and moved around the corner from the sling belay to join with the second pitch of Love Minus Zero and [recommend] it as well. May 4, 2003
You're the man, Steve. Nov 5, 2001
Cool link-up. Nov 4, 2001