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Routes in Redgarden - Roof Routes

(Total) Psycho! T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1-
Blue Steel T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Canary Corner Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Clear the Deck T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Clever Lever S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Dangerous Acquaintances T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Downpressor Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Evangeline S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1
Fire and Ice T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Gem, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Guardian Saint T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Guen-Ice T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Guenese T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hands In The Clouds T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Huck Off T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kloeberdanz T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Kloeberdeath/Candallegro T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Last Rite T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Le Toit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Le Toit Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Le Verne T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lipsync T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mean Lean T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Psycho S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rosy Toit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Scary Canary T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Temporary Like Achilles T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trippin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Tubesock Tanline T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Wasabe S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wisdom, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 190 ft Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: Steve Wunsch and Hunter Smith 1973
Page Views: 1,837 total · 10/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on May 15, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This spectacular and spooky route starts at the top of the second pitch of Le Toit and ends at the top of Rosy Crucifixion in one 190 foot pitch. From the bolted anchor on Le Toit move up and left into a right facing corner via 5.9+ moves. Follow the corner until you reach two pitons and head hard left, it is runout after the pitons. Join up with Rosy C. at the bolted anchor on the second pitch and follow its third pitch to the Upper Ramp. While the crux is pretty well protected for the leader it is pretty serious before and after. The second should be very solid at the grade because a fall from the crux moves will result in a huge swing.

Protection

Couple of pitons, small to medium cams, stoppers...

Photos

Ross Keller
Parker, CO
  5.10c R
Ross Keller   Parker, CO
  5.10c R
There's good gear before the crux and a big horn that wraps nicely with a double-length sling after the crux. The 2 pins at the crux are junk, but the LA before them and the gear you can place below that pin are good. After the crux section, it's a moderate and run-out rising left traverse with one 9-ish move near the end. Certainly no worse for leader or 2nd than the Le Toit pitches that lead up to it.3 stars for position & moves. 2 stars for rock quality. 1 star for gear. Well worth doing! Jun 16, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
I'm going to agree that the rating is not as hard as most established Eldo 10c's. I'll also say that I don't think the gear is that bad, you get plenty of OK gear along the way and there is certainly enough available to make and ascent safe, provided you place it.In hindsight, it is too bad I didn't tie this into the second pitch of Le Toit for a single long pitch. The pitches would combine nicely, and despite the winging route that would have created, I believe that the judicious use of 2' slings would keep the rope drag down. TOo bad I didn't read this suggestion first. May 31, 2004
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.10- R
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.10- R
While the climbing is fun, exposed, and generally quite easy, the gear past the pins really isn't great. I must disagree with Tony on this matter. There are a couple tiny brass nuts and a ballnut in shallow placements behind solid flakes. Otherwise, everything you could place is behind a hollow flake as far as I can tell. This is a small matter as the climbing really doesn't get harder than 9+/10- for any particular move, and the position is spectacular. Oct 5, 2016