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Routes in Redgarden - Roof Routes

(Total) Psycho! T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1-
Blue Steel T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Canary Corner Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Clear the Deck T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Clever Lever S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Dangerous Acquaintances T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Downpressor Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Evangeline S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1
Fire and Ice T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Gem, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Guardian Saint T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Guen-Ice T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Guenese T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hands In The Clouds T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Huck Off T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kloeberdanz T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Kloeberdeath/Candallegro T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Last Rite T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Le Toit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Le Toit Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Le Verne T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lipsync T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mean Lean T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Psycho S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rosy Toit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Scary Canary T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Temporary Like Achilles T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trippin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Tubesock Tanline T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Wasabe S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wisdom, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Duncan Ferguson, Jim Erickson, Bill Putnam
Page Views: 4,769 total, 24/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Mar 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
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Description

This fun and exhilarating taste of Eldo begins eighty feet up the long, prominent ramp left of the roof routes on Redgarden Wall that leads to the base of such climbs as Ruper and Rosy Crucifixion.

P1. Look for an old pin a foot off the ramp and a zig-zagging line of chalked holds. Le Toit is the easiest line in the area, probably not a good idea to mistake it for the first pitch of the Wisdom (lower down). Set a belay and head up and right on steep funky 5.9 climbing that has less than ideal pro. Forty feet up, angle back left slightly and clip a bad upside down pin, above this is a good bolt. Clip the bolt off and awkward, balancy stance (probably not good to blow this clip), then crank the crimpy crux face moves to a rock strewn ledge with a two bolt anchor.

P2. The second pitch surmounts the roof which is surprisingly less steep than it appears from the ground. Start with a creepy insecure 8+ traverse right to an ancient pin (which can be backed up for the second) then crank up the obvious chalked jugs to a good bolt and sloping ledge. Pop around the roof on the right, .10b/c, and continue up for twenty feet to a two bolt anchor.

P3. For the third pitch move the belay fifty feet right on a 5.0 traverse and set it in a typical Eldo slanting ramp system. Look for some short corners and an inobvious traverse into them from the left. Make an unprotected 5.8 traverse into these corners and continue up and slightly left on steep 5.8 climbing with good holds and pro to reach the Upper Ramp.

This is a good route with plenty of funky Eldo climbing.

Protection

There is a substantial amount of old fixed gear on this route. It can be supplemented with a light standard rack with an emphasis on small stoppers and cams.
Aaron Ramras
  5.11a PG13
Aaron Ramras  
  5.11a PG13
For anyone planning to do this route...the pin before the bolt on P1 is working its way out. It's upward driven and can't be backed up well, and if it rips, it could be a disaster. If I were to go back, I would either hammer it in or remove it to see if gear can be placed in the pin scar. May 9, 2017
Hey Brian...I just did this the Le Toit direct pitch today with Joe Mills as a finish to Scary Canary, and peeked on here to see if anyone had opinions about it. Let's say I was not bummed Joe lead this pitch! It's not bad getting to the first bolt, a bomber looking old ring bolt, but getting to the next bolt is a puckery twenty feet, and then you get there and it's a shitty quarter incher with a bail biner on it. I'd say there is a crux before and after this bolt, and if the bolt breaks...it could be real bad. Once you have the bolt at your feet, you reach over left and place a pretty bomber green Alien before yet another crux out a wild, pumpy rooflet.... Heads up...but if the bolt doesn't break, not too ridiculous.... Definitely somebody should replace that bolt and put the existing one in a museum. As far as the quality of the climbing, it is on par with and a great finish for Scary Canary. Jan 26, 2012
Can anyone offer any info on Le Toit Direct? .11d straight up from the second anchor. Basically, I'm wondering how the gear is and whether the .11d bit is well protected, etc. Jan 22, 2012
climberKJ
Holderness, NH
  5.11a R
climberKJ   Holderness, NH
  5.11a R
First two pitches are incredible. P1 is pumpy and thin, P2 has some funky moves and an amazing slap to the arete. Tony, I totally agree with P3. I was going to lead it until we realized the danger, so Matt stepped up to the plate to do it for me. It's also much harder if you're shorter, I had to do it completely different than Matt.... Next time I'll definitely do the Rosy variation. Nov 18, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a PG13
All of this talk and nobody mentions the 3rd pitch....
Well, OK. For starters, 5.8 my fat A$$. It's probably 5.9+ and if you fall, you're going to bust your tailbone and god knows what else on that ledge. That said, if you are there, you are at least a 5.10 climber, so I guess that you'll be fine. Still, not something to drag your less-experienced partner up on and then try to get them to finish it off.
All said and done, I think the 10c finish as for 'Rosy Toit' is no more dangerous at any skill level than the standard finish. Jun 10, 2007
The roof used to be 5.8 Wow!! I guess some handholds fell out of there. Aug 26, 2004
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
For some reason, I don't think this is as good as others say it is. The fist half off pitch 1, besides being runout, has several loose flakes. The P2 roof is ugly, and the flakes below the bolt are loose. I much prefer Guenese. The Le Toit roof is in a spectacular position, though.

I have a hard time clipping that first pin on P1 at the start of the runout 5.9. This last time I skipped that pin. I start P1 about 8 feet right of that pin, climbing straight up the face on positive holds. There's not much chalk there, so it looks like most people climb past the pin.

GEAR BETA: About 10' up, red Alien and (I think) pin tri-cam in pocket (didn't have one). At the end of the rightward traverse, where that ring pin is, you can get a blue tri-cam (two sizes bigger than the red) in a pocket of solid rock. The flakes in that same area are loose. A tiny cam can be placed at the top of the flakes, forcing the flakes hopefully down, rather than out. A solid brass nut can be placed higher in a small right facing corner at the start of the moves onto the ramp above. A blue Alien or better, a blue-green hybrid Alien, can be placed on the ramp to protect the move up to the pin. A #1 Offset Friend can be placed in the undercling left of the fixed pin at the crux. This mostly fills the undercling, but that's OK. As someone says in a post above, you can place a decent nut to the right of the pin. You can place this without committing to the moves. The pin looks OK to me despite others above saying it's bad. Perhaps it has been replaced? Clipping the bolt is indeed hard, but with the nut and cam backing up the pin, blowing the clip should not be serious. The crux moves are pretty technical, and fun once you figure them out.

Not much has been said about the second pitch. The start is spooky with bad gear. We placed a blue Alien up high using the good holds just right of the anchor bolts. We then climbed straight up to the fixed pin rather than traversing to it, as the chalk indicates most people do. That wasn't too bad, once we decided it what to do. The "roof" (more of an overhanging wall) was harder than I expected. Once you get the arête I expected it to be over, but it's real tricky placing your feet--the tendency is to barn door to the right into space. Mar 21, 2004
It's been a few years since I've been on this route, but I had always put in a very good stopper (like a #3 or #4 Rock, curved side out), near the upside-down pin on pitch one. The little roof that holds the upside-down pin will turn up on the right forming a small dihedral. The Rock goes in at that roof/dihedral transition, slotting in from the right. Mar 16, 2003
Absolutely one of my favorite all time Eldo routes! Got suckered/sandbagged into leading the first pitch and found it a challenge fer sure! Fun steep climbing on great rock gets you out into some cool exposure just like Rosy. Highly recommend for people comfortable leading 5.11 anywhere else but Eldo. Thank Rob Candalaria (sp?) for the good bolt at the crux! Jan 16, 2003
Did Le Tiot today. Perfect day in Eldo and this ranks as one of my favorite climbs in the canyon. The climbing was challenging, but not seriously dangerous. We linked the first two pitches as Steve recommended, and then did the Rosy link up. This is a great way to climb this route. In response to the above comment, the crux is wherever you feel it is the hardest. Personally, I thought it was sustained from the time I clipped the pin, through the bolt and then up the face crimpers. Dec 20, 2001
Hopefully someone can answer this for me. Is the crux pulling past the upside-down pin and up to the bolt, or is it after the bolt? Dec 6, 2001