Type: Trad, 3 pitches Fixed Hardware (8)
FA: Duncan Ferguson, Jim Erickson, Bill Putnam
Page Views: 5,208 total · 23/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Mar 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This fun and exhilarating taste of Eldo begins eighty feet up the long, prominent ramp left of the roof routes on Redgarden Wall that leads to the base of such climbs as Ruper and Rosy Crucifixion.

P1. Look for an old pin a foot off the ramp and a zig-zagging line of chalked holds. Le Toit is the easiest line in the area, probably not a good idea to mistake it for the first pitch of the Wisdom (lower down). Set a belay and head up and right on steep funky 5.9 climbing that has less than ideal pro. Forty feet up, angle back left slightly and clip a bad upside down pin, above this is a good bolt. Clip the bolt off and awkward, balancy stance (probably not good to blow this clip), then crank the crimpy crux face moves to a rock strewn ledge with a two bolt anchor.

P2. The second pitch surmounts the roof which is surprisingly less steep than it appears from the ground. Start with a creepy insecure 8+ traverse right to an ancient pin (which can be backed up for the second) then crank up the obvious chalked jugs to a good bolt and sloping ledge. Pop around the roof on the right, .10b/c, and continue up for twenty feet to a two bolt anchor.

P3. For the third pitch move the belay fifty feet right on a 5.0 traverse and set it in a typical Eldo slanting ramp system. Look for some short corners and an inobvious traverse into them from the left. Make an unprotected 5.8 traverse into these corners and continue up and slightly left on steep 5.8 climbing with good holds and pro to reach the Upper Ramp.

This is a good route with plenty of funky Eldo climbing.

Protection

There is a substantial amount of old fixed gear on this route. It can be supplemented with a light standard rack with an emphasis on small stoppers and cams.

Photos