Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Redgarden - Roof Routes

(Total) Psycho! T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1-
Blue Steel T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Canary Corner Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Clear the Deck T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Clever Lever S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Dangerous Acquaintances T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Downpressor Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Evangeline S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1
Fire and Ice T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Gem, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Guardian Saint T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Guen-Ice T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Guenese T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hands In The Clouds T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Huck Off T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kloeberdanz T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Kloeberdeath/Candallegro T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Last Rite T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Le Toit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Le Toit Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Le Verne T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lipsync T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mean Lean T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Psycho S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rosy Toit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Scary Canary T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Temporary Like Achilles T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trippin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Tubesock Tanline T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Wasabe S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wisdom, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 3 pitches Fixed Hardware (5)
FA: [FA L Kor & L Dalke , 1963. FFA (all pitches) S Wunsch and J Erickson, 1974]
Page Views: 4,693 total, 25/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 27, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


28 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Approach as per T2 or Guenese. Just up and left of Jules Verne and T2, or just down and right of Guenese is the lower terminus of the higher roof among the roof routes. The roof is some 40 off of the deck and runs parallel to the ground. A the terminus it bends upward as it rises to the right. Just to the left of the bend in the roof you will see a single both and 3 very well chalked holds. One is a bucket, the others are small.

P1. Start climbing a crack on the lower left, past a few good stopper placements (strongly advised to keep the rope out of your way). Continue up toward the left side of the bolted roof, clipping a fixed pin on the left as well. Again, this keeps you out of the rope when leading the roof. You can pop a red tricam in an old angle pin scar just above this. The squeamish can also place a cam in a hand jam with a long sling just before starting the roof. The crack is full of guano, however.

Start off across the roof, clip the good bolt, and shoot hard through small holds to a huge hold to the right of the roof. Establish yourself on the far side and go up to clip a pin- and back it up.

Make a few more tricky moves going up and right to reach chains on 2 good bolts. Most people do not climb further, although there are 2 more pitches (5.10b and 5.9?). I've seen this route rated anywhere between 5.11a and 5.11d. My own personal experience here leads me toward the harder end of that range. The crux is a big move from small holds. Reach and forearms are the keys to this 3-move wander. Bouldering fans might make short work of it, while short people with no forearms might flail helplessly. My experience was somewhere between.

P2. TBA Per B. Wright: "The second pitch is 10c and had some lichen on it and maybe a touch of water (this was a couple of years ago, but I suspect things are pretty much the same)."

P3. TBA Per B. Wright: "The third pitch is 5.9 S+. This is a great, exciting pitch that demands classic Eldo nut fiddling from semi-bad stances and a cool head."

Protection

For pitch 1: a few stoppers to get to the roof, a good red tricam in a pin-scar or hand-sized cam (if you spook easily) before the roof, a bolt at the roof. After the crux, there is a bad fixed pin with opportunity to back it up on a 1.5" cam and some nuts later on. The last few moves to the chain are easy, but if you don't place the right gear, somewhat runout. I know nothing of P2 or P3. Can someone post a correction to add the info? If not, I'll do it after climbing them...
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11a/b PG13
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11a/b PG13
I seem to recall the original rating clocking in at 11- or thereabouts. That felt about accurate to me. The heel hook makes everything pretty reasonable. Aug 25, 2014
Saying "Reach and forearms are the keys to this 3-move wonder." is an understatement. A very short, powerful reachy crux. Aug 3, 2010
This one can be hard to decipher and that can make a big difference. I agree with Mike Storeim's comment that this route feels much harder today than it did in the mid 70s & 80s, and perhaps the crimper holds in the middle are not as positive as they used to be. But, for me, all routes feel harder now than they did back then. So, I'm not totally sure if it's the holds or just my advancing weight & declining strength. Any other Grey Hairs out there that have done this one lately care to comment on that? Chris A? Aug 29, 2006
There's nothing like a little German Folk Dancing to really spice up a party! Sep 13, 2004
I believe Kloeberdanz is a now extinct traditional German folk dance, literally translated it means "sick dog roof dancing." Jul 26, 2004
Kor worked for the Kloberdanz family in the '60s. They owned a brick or cement company. He told me he liked the name and used it for this route. They may still be in the Yellow Pages. May 26, 2004
ac
ac  
Does anyone know why Steve Wunsch quit climbing? Near-death experience? Better to burn-out than fade away? May 26, 2004
Advancing the historical discussion...I've posted the original photo of Steve Wunsch on the 1974 FFA below, next to Dave Bohn's scan from Climbing. Also, a second photo showing Jim Erickson following the crux (unsuccessfully) on the FFA. May 25, 2004
Re: Bob's and my exchange. I posted a lot of trivia to Tony that got ended up in "other comments" for some reason at the bottom of the page. Dec 8, 2003
You mean the Mag. that's in my photo below? I've still got Climbing Nov/Dec '72; now that's a classic! Dec 8, 2003
Got it here Tony ,"Kloberdanz Construction Company", Kor was taking odd and end jobs to supply his climbing habit and at the time he did this route, was working for them. Dec 8, 2003
If I can remember right in my advancing years, Kor was a "hoddy" at a masonry company named "Kloeber Mason's " (or something very close). Dec 8, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Other than the route of this Name in Eldo and also one in Yosemite, I believe, I can't find reference to what this word means. The one song by this title is an instrumental by Belcanto's White Out conditions LP. Can anyone shed light on the meaning? Dec 8, 2003
Mike Storeim
Evergreen, CO
Mike Storeim   Evergreen, CO
I've done this route several times, the first time in 1975 and the last in 1996. Maybe it's just my advancing age and a few extra pounds that made it feel harder, but I think that a piece of the crimper in the middle of the roof broke and is smaller than it used to be. It's definitely not as positive as it used to be.

Good idea to back up the pin after you clear the roof. Believe me.

In my opinion, the second and third pitches are the real reason to do this route, not the roof. They don't get done much and are a bit crusty in places. I think that the third pitch is a bit of a sandbag at 5.9, but you can decide that for yourself. Jun 24, 2003
Bill Wright
  5.11d
Bill Wright  
  5.11d
I think this route is way hard. I couldn't do this move and didn't really even get close to doing it. This type of move isn't my strength, though. Fortunately, you can still lead the route by just swinging over on the bolt. My partner, a semi-famous local, solid 5.12 climber, fell off it while following, so I think the move is pretty dang hard.

The climbing above the lip is pretty dicey (but well protected) face climbing (10-) to the anchors.

We did the second and third pitches as well and I'd recommend them as a fun adventure. The second pitch is 10c and had some lichen on it and maybe a touch of water (this was a couple of years ago, but I suspect things are pretty much the same).

The third pitch is 5.9 S+. This is a great, exciting pitch that demands classic Eldo nut fiddling from semi-bad stances and a cool head.

Bill

I don't think this is a "great" route, so I can't give it two stars. This is a good route, though. Jun 24, 2003
I can't believe there is even a question over who did this first ! Here's the photo from my archive of "Climbing" with Steve on an article about his first ascent. I used to go down there every week to gun for the 2-3 ascent until the "Kid" pulled the carpet from under our feet !! Jun 23, 2003
Tony  
I've read Barber in some places, Wunsch in others... and someone tried to convince me that it was Breashears, but I know the story on that one a bit better- it wasn't David Breashears... although he was the one to do it statically first. That's why I didn't specify on the FA on this one- frankly, I'm not sure what to believe. Oct 2, 2002
...Dave Breashears was the first one to cross and use a heel hook. How is that for a interesting bit of trivia? Oct 2, 2002
...the upper pitches are worth doing. Sep 30, 2002