Avg: 2.4 from 35 votes
Trad, 220 ft, 3 pitches
|FA:||[FA L Kor & L Dalke , 1963. FFA (all pitches) S Wunsch and J Erickson, 1974]|
|Page Views:||5,771 total · 27/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Sep 27, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
P1. Start climbing a crack on the lower left, past a few good stopper placements (strongly advised to keep the rope out of your way). Continue up toward the left side of the bolted roof, clipping a fixed pin on the left as well. Again, this keeps you out of the rope when leading the roof. You can pop a red tricam in an old angle pin scar just above this. The squeamish can also place a cam in a hand jam with a long sling just before starting the roof. The crack is full of guano, however.
Start off across the roof, clip the good bolt, and shoot hard through small holds to a huge hold to the right of the roof. Establish yourself on the far side and go up to clip a pin- and back it up.
Make a few more tricky moves going up and right to reach chains on 2 good bolts. Most people do not climb further, although there are 2 more pitches (5.10b and 5.9?). I've seen this route rated anywhere between 5.11a and 5.11d. My own personal experience here leads me toward the harder end of that range. The crux is a big move from small holds. Reach and forearms are the keys to this 3-move wander. Bouldering fans might make short work of it, while short people with no forearms might flail helplessly. My experience was somewhere between.
P2. TBA Per B. Wright: "The second pitch is 10c and had some lichen on it and maybe a touch of water (this was a couple of years ago, but I suspect things are pretty much the same)."
P3. TBA Per B. Wright: "The third pitch is 5.9 S+. This is a great, exciting pitch that demands classic Eldo nut fiddling from semi-bad stances and a cool head."