Type: Trad, 220 ft, 3 pitches Fixed Hardware (5)
FA: [FA L Kor & L Dalke , 1963. FFA (all pitches) S Wunsch and J Erickson, 1974]
Page Views: 5,771 total · 27/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 27, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

Approach as per T2 or Guenese. Just up and left of Jules Verne and T2, or just down and right of Guenese is the lower terminus of the higher roof among the roof routes. The roof is some 40 off of the deck and runs parallel to the ground. A the terminus it bends upward as it rises to the right. Just to the left of the bend in the roof you will see a single both and 3 very well chalked holds. One is a bucket, the others are small.

P1. Start climbing a crack on the lower left, past a few good stopper placements (strongly advised to keep the rope out of your way). Continue up toward the left side of the bolted roof, clipping a fixed pin on the left as well. Again, this keeps you out of the rope when leading the roof. You can pop a red tricam in an old angle pin scar just above this. The squeamish can also place a cam in a hand jam with a long sling just before starting the roof. The crack is full of guano, however.

Start off across the roof, clip the good bolt, and shoot hard through small holds to a huge hold to the right of the roof. Establish yourself on the far side and go up to clip a pin- and back it up.

Make a few more tricky moves going up and right to reach chains on 2 good bolts. Most people do not climb further, although there are 2 more pitches (5.10b and 5.9?). I've seen this route rated anywhere between 5.11a and 5.11d. My own personal experience here leads me toward the harder end of that range. The crux is a big move from small holds. Reach and forearms are the keys to this 3-move wander. Bouldering fans might make short work of it, while short people with no forearms might flail helplessly. My experience was somewhere between.

P2. TBA Per B. Wright: "The second pitch is 10c and had some lichen on it and maybe a touch of water (this was a couple of years ago, but I suspect things are pretty much the same)."

P3. TBA Per B. Wright: "The third pitch is 5.9 S+. This is a great, exciting pitch that demands classic Eldo nut fiddling from semi-bad stances and a cool head."

Protection

For pitch 1: a few stoppers to get to the roof, a good red tricam in a pin-scar or hand-sized cam (if you spook easily) before the roof, a bolt at the roof. After the crux, there is a bad fixed pin with opportunity to back it up on a 1.5" cam and some nuts later on. The last few moves to the chain are easy, but if you don't place the right gear, somewhat runout. I know nothing of P2 or P3. Can someone post a correction to add the info? If not, I'll do it after climbing them...

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