Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Many routes exist on this little rock. Some of the easiest slab routes in the canyon and some difficult lines often toproped.

Getting There

Cross the bridge--it's basically right off the trail to the West next to Redgarden and across from the Bastille.

32 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Whale's Tail Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at The Whale's Tail

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in The Whale's Tail »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

This is a great rock for people who want to get into leading. The crack numbered (1) goes about 5.2 with pro placements at about every move. The crack numbered (3) goes about 5.4 with even more pro placements than the other crack. Both anchors are solid, and can be backed up if so desired. The face (2) is easily TR'd from the anchor for the first crack. It goes about 5.easy.

I think the crux of this entire face is getting to the belay ledge.

Oh. A 60m rope is really nice to have for raping off the anchors on the first crack. I've had bad luck getting ropes stuck on this one, so stand as far to climbers right as you can when pulling the ropes. Jan 11, 2002
Getting to the base of the west face of this rock is a bit hairy. It's not that you're afraid of falling, it's just that the ground is so far away. Nov 24, 2003
I've felt for many years that the ratings are backwards. That the left crack is 5.2 with some 5.4 moves while the curving corner to the right is almost class 4 with some 5.2 moves to exit to the anchor. Any other comments? Jun 12, 2004
I kind of agree with the comment that the crack (#1 in the photo) seems harder than the corner (#3 in the photo). I think the crack just seems steeper, and is definitely longer. The corner has only the one move to get around the flake. So I guess I give 'em each a 5.3 to even it out. No matter how you slice it, they're both terrific routes, no matter how good you are. May 25, 2005
Benjamn P
Boulder, CO
Benjamn P   Boulder, CO
LOST GEAR: my girlfriend borrowed my rack & got a cam stuck on 3/15/15. See 'West Crack' for description. Mar 16, 2015
I left a tricam on a ledge leading up to West Dihedral. Please contact me if you are able to retrieve it! Aug 8, 2016