Elevation: 5,841 ft
GPS: 39.931, -105.283 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 40,662 total · 185/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Many routes exist on this little rock. Some of the easiest slab routes in the canyon and some difficult lines often toproped.

Getting There

Cross the bridge--it's basically right off the trail to the West next to Redgarden and across from the Bastille.

32 Total Climbs

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Location: The Whale's Tail Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Whale's Tail

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 228
● West Crack
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 151
● West Dihedral
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 54
● Clementine
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
 60
● West Face [Whale's Tail]
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 4
● New Cambria
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
 27
● Jack The Ripper
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 45
● C'est What?
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
● Free Speech
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
 3
● NED (Nothing Except Dynamics)
Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 17
● The Monument
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● West Crack
 228
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad, TR
● West Dihedral
 151
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
● Clementine
 54
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
● West Face [Whale's Tail]
 60
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X Trad, TR
● New Cambria
 4
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad, TR
● Jack The Ripper
 27
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X Trad
● C'est What?
 45
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
● Free Speech
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● NED (Nothing Except Dynamics)
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 Trad
● The Monument
 17
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Whale's Tail »

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The Whale's Tail from across the river.
The Whale's Tail from across the river.
 1
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Whale’s Tail on a beautiful November day.
Whale’s Tail on a beautiful November day.
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6 Comments

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Matt Rutledge
Matt Rutledge  
This is a great rock for people who want to get into leading. The crack numbered (1) goes about 5.2 with pro placements at about every move. The crack numbered (3) goes about 5.4 with even more pro placements than the other crack. Both anchors are solid, and can be backed up if so desired. The face (2) is easily TR'd from the anchor for the first crack. It goes about 5.easy.

I think the crux of this entire face is getting to the belay ledge.

Oh. A 60m rope is really nice to have for raping off the anchors on the first crack. I've had bad luck getting ropes stuck on this one, so stand as far to climbers right as you can when pulling the ropes. Jan 11, 2002
DanMoore
DanMoore  
Getting to the base of the west face of this rock is a bit hairy. It's not that you're afraid of falling, it's just that the ground is so far away. Nov 24, 2003
Anonymous Coward
Anonymous Coward  
I've felt for many years that the ratings are backwards. That the left crack is 5.2 with some 5.4 moves while the curving corner to the right is almost class 4 with some 5.2 moves to exit to the anchor. Any other comments? Jun 12, 2004
Mike Abraham
Mike Abraham  
I kind of agree with the comment that the crack (#1 in the photo) seems harder than the corner (#3 in the photo). I think the crack just seems steeper, and is definitely longer. The corner has only the one move to get around the flake. So I guess I give 'em each a 5.3 to even it out. No matter how you slice it, they're both terrific routes, no matter how good you are. May 25, 2005
Benjamn P
Boulder, CO
Benjamn P   Boulder, CO
LOST GEAR: my girlfriend borrowed my rack & got a cam stuck on 3/15/15. See 'West Crack' for description. Mar 16, 2015
Rachel Harkleroad
Rachel Harkleroad  
I left a tricam on a ledge leading up to West Dihedral. Please contact me if you are able to retrieve it! Aug 8, 2016