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Routes in The Whale's Tail

Ahab T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amputee Love T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Buffoon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
C'est What? S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Clementine T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dihedral One T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c V2 5+ R
Dihedral Two T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Slabs T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Fight Gone Bad T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Finger Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Free Speech S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gumbo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gut Feeling T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Horangutan T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Jack The Ripper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Jim Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kid's Climb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
M aka The Divine Ms. M T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Martindale T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Monument, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
NED (Nothing Except Dynamics) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
New Cambria T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
No Problem T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Northeast Arete T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Second Coming S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Spoof T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spoof Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
West Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
West Dihedral T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
West Face [Whale's Tail] T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Yorkshire Ripper, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Type: Trad, TR, 160 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 14,504 total, 72/month
Shared By: Dawn DuPriest on Apr 28, 2001 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

In my opinion, this is the finest beginner's lead climb in the state. It has excellent pro and easy but airy climbing.

The traverse to the belay ledge is 4th class but exposed; it is a good idea to rope up on it. From the roomy belay ledge, the crack goes straight up - no rope drag and no route finding. The start is the most intimidating part, but it is easier than it looks.

Holds are generously placed in and around the crack and always where you need them. There are a few easy jams and manteling moves. It feels harder than 5.2 - it's steep, and the wind blowing through the canyon gives the climb some exciting exposure. It has beautifully solid rock and wonderful, wonderful pro. I placed my entire set of stoppers and several hexes into the crack.

Rappel from the two bolt anchor that is shared with West Face [Whale's Tail] and West Dihedral on the top of the route.

If you are learning to lead, you must make this one of your first! Beautiful.

Protection

Large cable used to be threaded around boulders at the top. Now there is a two bolt anchor with rings. You can sink your whole rack into the crack if you like - passive pro is best, lots of stoppers and hexes. If you like an anchor on the big belay ledge, a long runner to sling a boulder and a couple of large hexes will make a bombproof one.
L Kap
Boulder, CO
L Kap   Boulder, CO
Please be aware that there is just ONE 2-bolt anchor at the top of the west face of the Whale's Tail. (The cable that used to exist at the top of West Dihedral has been removed.) The sole 2-bolt anchor is located at the top of West Crack and also shared by West Dihedral, West Face, and Jim Crack. A leader can build a trad anchor at the top of West Dihedral / West Face, but there is no easy walk-off that I'm aware of, so that party will still eventually need to unbuild their trad anchor and traverse over to use the West Crack anchor to rap down.

If there are other parties on the ledge using or headed for the West Crack anchor, the polite thing to do it talk to each other before you get into a clusterfuck. When there is wind and/or roaring water in the creek, it can be hard to communicate from the bottom of the pitch to the top, so it's best to figure out anchor use before your leader leaves the belay ledge. May 6, 2017
zaq
zaq  
If you are climbing to the chain anchors, it is right of the roof at the top, not left where the cable anchor was. Sep 11, 2016
Gregger Man
Broomfield, CO
Gregger Man   Broomfield, CO
New double ring anchor installed, cable removed. Jul 18, 2015
Benjamn P
Boulder, CO
 
Benjamn P   Boulder, CO
 
LOST GEAR: my girlfriend borrowed my rack & got a cam stuck on 3/15/15. We went to climb & retrieve it a day later. We saw a group summiting at 1pm who probably got it as we went to attempt something on Redgarden first (I was assuming it was really stuck & even brought hammers & lube).

Please return for a six pack of your choice & good karma! I'm posting about something I found today too. PM me for a description & to return! Much Thanks! Mar 16, 2015
In addition to being one gnarly individual and about the nicest guy you'd ever meet, Billy is responsible for a LOT of the trail work in Eldo. Every time I'm looking at a trail disaster, I think WWBD.

Puts a BIG smile on my face to hear that he's climbing. Apr 30, 2013
Bob Carmichael
Boulder
Bob Carmichael   Boulder
Climbed this route yesterday with Billy Roos. He and I were climbers dating back to 1968 in Eldorado Springs. So we decided to go up the easiest route in Eldorado. We used to solo it often, but now we are senior citizens and it was an Adventure!

Bring a 60m rope to rap off the first pitch. Downclimbing the east slabs is not EASY and is time consuming.

The route loved Stoppers and Aliens and Camalots and ALL manner of pro. It is a GREAT beginner lead providing you've done your homework on placing safe gear.

Bill Roos, is head of the safety committee for Outward Bound and formerly a GREAT climber in his day with all manner of skills: rock, altitude, and snow/ice. Great to be sharing a rope with someone you climbed the Yellow Wall with in 1975.

Best

Bob Carmichael Apr 29, 2013
Eben Daggett
Boulder, CO
 
Eben Daggett   Boulder, CO
 
Gave this 4 stars because it is such a memorable lead for a beginner! Could be lead almost exclusively with medium to large stoppers. Exposed and steep but not scary. A great confidence builder! Definitely stiff for it's 5.2 rating, but the holds are always there and the climbing is easy. Really loved this route. The traverse to the belay can be a bit scary for some, but it is easy moving and can easily be protected if you choose to rope up for it. For those who are confused by the page saying the route is 160ft and a 60m rope works for the rappel to the belay... the entire route, INCLUDING the traverse pitch, is 160ft. The actual climb is just shy of 100ft and can easily be repelled with a 60m rope. This may be obvious to most, but as the route was not listed as a multipitch I was a bit confused. Jun 23, 2012
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Best sub-5.5 climb I've ever done and as good as any 5.5! Not sure about the rating, but then this is an old school area. The line, the movement, the exposure make this a true classic at the grade! Jun 16, 2012
Joshinator
Longmont, Colorado
Joshinator   Longmont, Colorado
I think this is a great beginner climb, but I wouldn't call it 5.2. Seems harder than that, personally. I lead it yesterday and I hesitate to admit this, but I had some trouble with footing in the crux. However, it is easy to protect and still a lot of fun. I think for a beginner lead the West Dihedral may be a better choice, but that might just be me. Aug 19, 2011
Ryan Day Thompson
Phoenix, Arizona
Ryan Day Thompson   Phoenix, Arizona
Did this with a buddy who climbed in his Converses. He did fine. The feet and hands are all there on every single move. I think this is a great introduction to airy climbing and a great introduction to climbing period. I was totally freaked out by the scramble up to it but got over it eventually. I think the crux and the opening move should make this a 5.3...if such a thing exists. As always, this EATS gear from #0.5 to #4 Camalot. GREAT place to teach gear placement and especially passive pro placement. Dec 26, 2010
Matt Ting
5.2
Matt Ting  
5.2
As many of the previous posts advertise this is a great place to bring beginning climbers. Fun routes with nice diversity (West Crack, Face, Dihedral) and exposure. We did encounter some wasps near the top of the Crack and Face; hanging about in some of the pockets. Approach is more difficult than the climbing but the ledge comfortably held 3, fairly big guys ... plenty of space once you arrive. NOTE: a 50m rope WILL toprope the crack off the cable anchor to the belay ledge with plenty left on the ground. Not sure why, but previous posts stated that a 60m was necessary. Oct 4, 2008
Rick Blair
Denver
  5.3
Rick Blair   Denver
  5.3
I am not incredibly brave and I found the approach not too scary, I thought it was over-hyped, my second disagrees. I went to the left and built an anchor south of the tree, the pictures lead me to believe I should finish at the cable, did I do a variation? Hmmmm. This is the steepest, longest, most sustained, airiest pitch I have climbed at this level but I can't argue too much with the rating because the holds are all there, I did it in approach shoes. Feels much more intimidating to me than the 5.4s and 5.5s on Wind Tower. I lead with all passive pro, the crack ate up nuts and hexes, clipped an old piton near the top plus one cam for multi-directional at the start and cams for anchors. The rappel start is very easy, rampy, perfect for a beginner. I recommend stopper knots because if you rap just a little to the SW, the ropes can be 5 feet off the ground.

B Immele - Nice job on the cable!! Sep 30, 2008
HTP
Longmont, CO
 
HTP   Longmont, CO
 
The info on this climb says: One pitch, 160 feet. Just to clarify, one pitch is accurate, one 60 meter rope will do. It's about 90 feet from the belay ledge to the anchors. And the most challenging part of the climb is the approach! Sep 15, 2008
B immele
Louisville, Colorado
B immele   Louisville, Colorado
I have a permit from Steve M at Eldo to replace the anchor at the top of this climb. He has approved the cable and rings and I hope to install it this week end. It should eliminate any distrust in the anchor as the cable was frayed and useless along with too many slings/rings.

Bruce Jul 31, 2008
Ben Helgeson
Denver
 
Ben Helgeson   Denver
 
Don't go to the gym after work. Go climb the West Crack. Downclimb the east slabs for a technical descent. Aug 11, 2007
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
 
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
 
Wow, thanks tectonics for a great beginner trad climb, it sure puts one at ease early in a trad career when you can sew it up. Jun 12, 2007
jay baichi
  5.2
jay baichi  
  5.2
This was my friend's first climb outside of a gym. She loved it! I would recommend this to any first-time climbers to Eldo. Oct 26, 2006
Great beginner lead. Consistent climbing, good exposure, nice straight line, pretty good rappel anchor. The crack gobbles (and sometimes keeps) good small pro. There is now a large fixed nut and a small fixed cam on this route. Much better than West Dihedral (to the right). Beginners want to crawl into the crack - this makes it much more difficult than stemming outside the crack.-s May 19, 2005
Rob Migliore
  5.3
Rob Migliore  
  5.3
Try to lead with only nuts. Seemed like a long route and I might of ran out of draws. Would be a good place to take a newbie, but the sketchy approach is best done in rock shoes. Also, not much room on the belay ledge to hog up while showing a newbie everything. Jun 25, 2004
Great climb. Did this on a Thursday (no waiting). Very nice route, I belayed my second at the little alcove about a third of the way up to see if she wanted to lead the rest. As it turns out she did not, however this would be an option to get a beginning leader past the more difficult start and on to the easier top two thirds of the pitch. This crack takes so much great gear I was worried about running out of slings and draws... For those who need practice setting passive gear (nuts and hexes), this route is just the ticket. Jun 1, 2004
ac
ac  
Hmmm.... Can anyone actually tell the difference between a 5.2 and a 5.4? I'm not much of a climber - 5.8 usually feels pretty stiff for me; 5.10 is out of the question - but I've never been able to tell the difference. I like Gerry Roach's scale: 5.0-2; 5.3-4; 5.5; etc. Let's face it: even if you are climbing in approach shoes or hiking boots, there are simply not five gradations of difficulty between 4th class and 5.5. May 25, 2004
William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
  5.3
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
  5.3
Though the start appears very intimidating, a little coaching will have your green-leader up to the cable in no time. This crack will eat up smaller nuts, so please don't give your newbie a #4 to haul up there. Also, small nuts actually DO get eaten up here, so place as many as you can PLEASE! I like new gear, especially bootyed gear! A little secret I'll share for y'all: bring along the blue and black aliens. In case you come across a 'fixed nut,' you can place the alien next to it, sling it and stand on it and 10:1 the nut will move. Just a little hint...~Wm May 24, 2004
Easy climb felt like a 5.4..there was a "fixed" stopper yesterday and it looked like it would come out with a pound of a hammer...my hex and cleaning tool couldn't get it out...guess I need to hit the gym. Mar 22, 2004
James Garnett
Bellingham, WA
James Garnett   Bellingham, WA
Ah ha, Alan, so you must be AK; I think I've seen your slings on other raps in the area. I almost cut your new webbing off since it was marked "2002," but came to my senses after a closer look. The quicklink/rapring are showing some rope wear; anyone who has a spare quicklink might want to bring it up and put it in. Aug 11, 2003
I led this today. Still a great beginner's lead. Several pigeons are living in the crack, and just jump out at you as you approach. The fixed wire at the belay is getting quite frayed. It has cut up the old webbing, which was pretty stiff and sundried anyway (good for tomatoes, BAD for webbing). I removed the dangerous slings, and backed up the wire with a new sling. Careful poking your fingertips on the frayed wire while inspecting it and the sling. If anyone knows [how] to make [another] wire anchor, and has the equipment to do so, it would be a great thing to do for this well used route (you will accumulate much good karma). Jul 26, 2003
This is a great climb for being so easy-- steep, somewhat exposed, and full of friendly holds where ever you look. Be careful pulling the rope down after rapping since the crack system will gobble it up. Apr 1, 2002
This is a great date climb to introduce your non-climbing significant other to the fun that Eldo has to offer. It is not very intimidating, and your partner's success will give you a strong argument when you suggest going to Yosemite for a month or two. Feb 4, 2002
Great climb, it was my first trad lead. you can avoid the ledge scramble on the descent by dragging an extra rope and rappelling over the westernly roof to the talus below. May 25, 2001