Type: Trad, TR, 160 ft (48 m) Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 19,393 total · 82/month
Shared By: Dawn DuPriest on Apr 28, 2001 with 2 Suggestions
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Description

In my opinion, this is the finest beginner's lead climb in the state. It has excellent pro and easy but airy climbing.

The traverse to the belay ledge is 4th class but exposed; it is a good idea to rope up on it. From the roomy belay ledge, the crack goes straight up - no rope drag and no route finding. The start is the most intimidating part, but it is easier than it looks.

Holds are generously placed in and around the crack and always where you need them. There are a few easy jams and manteling moves. It feels harder than 5.2 - it's steep, and the wind blowing through the canyon gives the climb some exciting exposure. It has beautifully solid rock and wonderful, wonderful pro. I placed my entire set of stoppers and several hexes into the crack.

Rappel from the two bolt anchor that is shared with West Face [Whale's Tail] and West Dihedral on the top of the route.

If you are learning to lead, you must make this one of your first! Beautiful.

Protection

Large cable used to be threaded around boulders at the top. Now there is a two bolt anchor with rings. You can sink your whole rack into the crack if you like - passive pro is best, lots of stoppers and hexes. If you like an anchor on the big belay ledge, a long runner to sling a boulder and a couple of large hexes will make a bombproof one.

Photos