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Routes in The Whale's Tail

Ahab T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amputee Love T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Buffoon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
C'est What? S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Clementine T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dihedral One T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c V2 5+ R
Dihedral Two T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Slabs T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Fight Gone Bad T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Finger Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Free Speech S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gumbo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gut Feeling T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Horangutan T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Jack The Ripper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Jim Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kid's Climb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Arete T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
M aka The Divine Ms. M T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Martindale T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Monument, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
NED (Nothing Except Dynamics) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
New Cambria T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
No Problem T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Northeast Arete T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Second Coming S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Spoof T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spoof Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
West Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
West Dihedral T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
West Face [Whale's Tail] T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Yorkshire Ripper, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 793 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 4, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

On the South Side of the Wind Tower there are 2 vertical dihedrals along the trail between the foot bridge and the cave. Both are open and somewhat irregular. Both are polished and smooth.

The second of these passed on the Streamside Trail (left-most) is Dihedral Two. Like Dihedral One, this route is slick and somehow still a little fun, although not very aesthetic. At 5.8+, it is another sandbag. Once again, the polished nature of the South Face of the Whale's Tail makes me say 5.8+... +1. It is 5.9.

Go up the dihedral placing a few TCUs and nuts on your way up. Muscle and balance your way through the slippery crux. Move up the corner/flakes and pull up and over to the slab and find a place to set some larger gear for a belay.

Descend by finishing up on the slabs to the top, or by traversing off and to the climber's right, effectively reversing "My Dogma Got Run Over By My Karma" to the back side slabe of the tail.

Like Dihedral One, this route [has] fun and interesting moves but is not very aesthetic.

Protection

The gear is reasonable with TCUs and stoppers. The crux is fairly close to the ground.

Photos

slevin  
FA is unknown. Jul 9, 2006
Dirk Diggler
Boulder, Colorado
  5.9
Dirk Diggler   Boulder, Colorado
  5.9
Rack beta: red, yellow, green C3 plus something for an anchor up top. Apr 6, 2017

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