Avg: 2.2 from 9 votes
Sport, 40 ft
|FA:||Mike Brooks (All your routes rock!!!!)|
|Page Views:||1,869 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Ken Trout on Dec 27, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Climbers on Free Speech, 5.12a.
There is a bolting ban on this aspect of The Whale's Tail. Luckily for us sport climbers, Mike Brooks got this one done before the ban. It is everyone's right to whine about slippery river polish. Ha! But really, the quality of the rock is excellent, the holds are comfy-smooth, and the approach is world class easy.
A huge stick-clip can be employed to reach the first piece of protection; an ancient ring-angle under the roof. Alternatively, a crash pad makes the start a lot safer too.
The ring-angle piton is the second fixed pin on Spoof and hard to see in the shadows under the roof. Blow off the first pin on Spoof. That way leads to Crazy Town just before you're able to clip the second pin. I prefer my cruxes lower, so instead climb straight up to a slippery, unprotected, 5.9+ undercling up onto a smeary left foot.
Slightly easier high ball bouldering gains the ring-angle piton under the roof. Clip the rope in from the nice hold an inch left of the ring angle (finally!). Back up the old pin by stuffing a purple/0.5 Camalot next to your fingers and the pin.
Begin the sport climbing by leaning out right to clip the first bolt. The crux is basically top-roped. Begin with a tricky toe-hook under the roof, find the left hand undercling, and then get both hands firmly established on river polished slopers.
SETTING UP FOR THE CRUX DYNO
5.12a. After getting hands matched on the highest sloper, launch rightward to a pistol grip that is both comfortable and secure for the next clip. My feet always cut loose after the sideways dyno to the pistol grip and that feeling of success when regaining control is what makes this route so fun.
CLIPPING THE SECOND BOLT
Pistol grip. After clipping the second bolt, your left hand goes into a deeply incut finger-bucket. Get the feet up as high as possible. Paw at the lip with the right hand, then dyno (about 15 degree right of vertical) to a totally hidden mini-pothole that ends the business.
REACHING FOR THE POTHOLE
Hard to on-sight because you can't see the mini-pothole!
I added a second anchor bolt about 1991 with committee approval. No links or chains allowed per Park rule. Adding protection for the extension didn't fly with the members at that time.
Adding a bolt to protect the extension would make a much better route. For now, continuing is at least 5.9 and the gear is not to be trusted. The crux is pulling the final bulge and a fall might end upon the retaining wall.
For the extension there is a small cam just above the anchor and then some side-ways RPs just below the crux bulge. Equalized and tied tight on rappel, the RPs held bounce tests. Placed on lead, with one hand, they were awfully loose.