Type: Trad Fixed Hardware (5)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 387 total · 2/month
Shared By: Mark J. Nelson on Sep 15, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Spoof follows an obvious line along the strata in the south face of the Whale's Tail. It begins about 30 feet right of the Cave, and moves up and left all the way around to the west end.

Rossiter describes the crux as the first 25 feet of the route. I would describe it as the first 30-35 feet. Three factors come together to make this something of an intimidating lead: the rock is water polished, the climb is constantly traversing, and the stances and gear are adequate but not ideal. For those reasons, your feet feel insecure, your ground fall potential is increased, and your pump and pucker factors are higher than you might expect.

Rossiter didn't give this route a star, and I agree. Unless you enjoy the things I already mentioned, plus being on display since you're climbing from the trail, there's not much motivation to climb Spoof. If you're looking for 5.8+ routes at Eldorado, you've got several alternatives: Werk Supp (P1 only), Mr. Natural, Chianti, and even Flakes to Whistlestop (5.9-) are all better, easier leads.

If you're still planning on giving it a go, be hyperaware of your ground fall potential when you get runout beyond the crux, and beware of loose rock when you come out of the dihedral at the top of the triangular slab above the cave. I carefully tested my holds there, and still took a 25-30 foot fall when I blew out a rock. I sprained both of my wrists and gouged my helmet, but if either my top piece (#3 tricam) or my belayer's anchor had failed, I probably would have decked onto the trail.

Protection

Standard Eldo rack. Small cams, small to medium tricams, medium cams.

Photos